肯尼迪夫人塵封的帶血裙裝

A Smart Pink Suit, Preserved In Memory, Kept Out of View

肯尼迪夫人塵封的帶血裙裝

On the plane back to Washington, in her pink Chanel suit, caked with her husband’s blood, Jackie Kennedy resisted all suggestions from aides that she clean herself up. Instead, she just said, “Let them see what they’ve done.”

在返回華盛頓的飛機上，杰奎琳·肯尼迪(Jackie Kennedy)穿著的香奈兒(Chanel)套裝上，她丈夫的鮮血已經(jīng)結(jié)成了塊。助手們多次建議她清理一下，但她只是說，“讓他們看看，他們都干了什么。”

But for the half century since John F. Kennedy’s assassination in Dallas on Nov. 22, 1963, the most famous artifact from that day, one of the most recognizable articles of clothing ever worn, has been seen by almost no one. Now preserved by the National Archives in a climate-controlled vault outside of Washington, it is subject to Kennedy family restrictions that it not be seen for almost a century more.

然而在1963年11月22日，約翰·F·肯尼迪(John F. Kennedy)在達拉斯遇刺身亡以來的半個世紀(jì)里，幾乎沒有人見到過那一天留下的最著名物品，它也是曾被穿過的最為人熟知的衣物之一。現(xiàn)在，它被國家檔案館(National Archives)保存在華盛頓郊外一座控制溫濕的保險庫里，按照肯尼迪家族的要求，還要再過將近一個世紀(jì)的時間，才能將其公開展出。

If there is a single item that captures both the shame and the violence that erupted that day, and the glamour and artifice that preceded it, it is Jackie Kennedy’s bloodstained pink suit, a tantalizing window on fame and fashion, her allure and her steely resolve, the things we know about her and the things we never quite will.

如果說有一件物品，既能表現(xiàn)那一天迸發(fā)的恥辱和暴力，又能夠表現(xiàn)在那之前的瑰麗和精巧，那就是杰奎琳·肯尼迪血跡斑斑的粉色套裝。它是一扇誘人的窗口，透過它能窺視名望和時尚，了解她的魅力和堅定的決心，感受我們已知的她，揣度我們永遠也不會了解的她。

That Mrs. Kennedy is so closely linked to an item of clothing is fitting. In nearly three years as first lady, she had gained universal celebrity for her youthful style. Politically, it meant huge crowds whenever she accompanied the president. But for Mrs. Kennedy, who felt vulnerable, fashion gave her a sense of separation from the public’s gaze. It was armor.

肯尼迪夫人和一件衣物的聯(lián)系如此緊密，這一點恰如其分。在身為第一夫人的近三年時間里，她因為自己青春的風(fēng)采而名動天下。在政治上，這意味著無論她何時陪伴在總統(tǒng)身邊，都會引來大批人的追隨。然而，對于感到脆弱的肯尼迪夫人而言，時尚給了她一種與公眾的目光相隔離的感覺。它是一副盔甲。

So even on that day, before the horror of what ensued, to look at Mrs. Kennedy was to be drawn inevitably to the pink suit, a line-for-line copy of a classic cardigan-style Chanel with navy lapels. The suit came from Chez Ninon, a Park Avenue salon that created many of her clothes, following her taste for simple lines. She wore it at least six other times, including on a 1962 visit to London and that same year to greet the president of Algeria.

所以，即使是在那天，在慘劇發(fā)生之前，看到肯尼迪夫人之時，人們的目光還是會不可避免被吸引到那件粉色套裝上，這件帶深藍色翻領(lǐng)的套裝，一絲不茍地模仿了香奈兒一款經(jīng)典的開襟套裝。衣服來自公園大道(Park Avenue)上的Chez Ninon，這家店根據(jù)杰奎琳喜好簡潔線條的品味，為她制作了許多服裝。除了這天之外，她至少還穿過這件衣服六次，她在1962年訪問倫敦時穿過，同年會見阿爾及利亞總理時也穿過。

Fifty years ago, at noon in Dallas, Clint Hill, who was the Secret Service agent assigned to Mrs. Kennedy, thought the pink suit looked fluorescent against the dark blue of the car carrying the president and the first lady.

指派給肯尼迪夫人的特勤局特工克林特·希爾(Clint Hill)感覺，50年前那個中午的達拉斯，在載有總統(tǒng)及第一夫人的深藍色轎車的映襯下，粉色套裝顯得閃閃發(fā)亮。

“She stood out so much in the car because of the color of that suit,” said Mr. Hill, who has released a new account of the killing, “Five Days in November,” in time for the anniversary. “It was like the sun just illuminated it.”

希爾說，“因為套裝的顏色，她在車里如此奪目，就像陽光讓它發(fā)亮。”希爾剛出版了記述肯尼迪遇刺事件的新書《11月的5天》(Five Days in November)，以配合又一個周年紀(jì)念日。

Now preserved in its vault, the pink suit and its accessories, still stained, the stockings blood-powdered and folded in a white towel, remain essentially unchanged from the day of the assassination. Only the outfit’s matching pillbox hat and white kid gloves are missing, lost in the chaos of that day.

目前保存在保險庫的粉色套裝和與它配套的長筒襪(卷放在一塊白毛巾中，上面沾著凝結(jié)的血滴)基本上和遇刺當(dāng)日一模一樣。只是和套裝相配的小圓帽和白色羊皮手套已在當(dāng)日的混亂中遺失了。

Although the National Archives has kept the suit and accessories, including navy shoes, bag and navy blouse, since 1964, when they arrived in a dress box, the items legally belonged after her death to Caroline Kennedy as her mother’s surviving heir. So a deed of gift was made in 2003 with the provision that the suit would not be seen by the public until 2103. Through her office, Ms. Kennedy declined to comment.

1964年，套裝和配飾(包括深藍色的皮鞋、手袋和深藍色上衣)被裝在服裝盒里運抵國家檔案館，自那以后一直保存在這里。肯尼迪夫人去世后，作為母親的在世繼承人，卡羅琳·肯尼迪(Caroline Kennedy)在法律上擁有這些物品。于是，在2003年，肯尼迪家族立下了贈送契約，其中有條款規(guī)定，要到2103年才能將套裝公之于眾?？_琳通過辦公室表示，她拒絕置評。

Over the years, the Kennedy family has sought to avoid the sensational treatment of assassination artifacts, and that is the explicit intent of the 100-year restriction. Nonetheless, Martha Murphy, chief of special access at the archives, said Mrs. Kennedy’s clothes are the only items in the assassination collection with this specific restriction.

多年來，肯尼迪家族一直力圖避免對遇刺時留下的物品進行煽情的處理，這也是100年限制明確的用意所在。盡管如此，檔案館特別訪問權(quán)主管瑪莎·墨菲(Martha Murphy)說，肯尼迪夫人的衣物是遇刺藏品中唯一受到這種特殊限制的物品。

By comparison, scholars and researchers who meet special criteria of the archives may view President Kennedy’s clothing and the rifle used by Lee Harvey Oswald. To the best of anyone’s knowledge, access to Mrs. Kennedy’s suit for research purposes has never been granted.

相比之下，符合國家檔案館特別標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的學(xué)者和研究人員可以查看肯尼迪總統(tǒng)的衣物和李·哈維·奧斯瓦爾德(Lee Harvey Oswald)用的步槍。就各方所知，為了研究目的而查看肯尼迪夫人套裝的申請從未被批準(zhǔn)過。

After Mrs. Kennedy returned to the White House, early on Nov. 23, her clothing was put in a bag, presumably by her personal maid, Providencia Paredes, and soon after placed in a dress box. Records show that it arrived at the archives sometime before July 1964, accompanied by an unsigned note on the stationery of Mrs. Kennedy’s mother, Janet Auchincloss.

肯尼迪夫人在11月23日一早回到白宮后，她的衣物被放進一個袋子，想必是由她的貼身女傭普洛韋登西亞·帕雷德斯(Providencia Paredes)做的，不久后這些衣物又被放進一個服裝盒。記錄顯示，盒子大約在1964年7月前的某一日抵達國家檔案館，并附有一張用肯尼迪夫人的母親珍妮特·奧金克洛斯(Janet Auchincloss)的信箋所寫的字條，上面沒有簽名。

The note simply said: “Jackie’s suite and bag — worn November 22, 1963.” It is unknown whether Mrs. Auchincloss made the decision to send the clothes to the archives or, as many believe, was following her daughter’s wishes. Ms. Paredes, in an interview, said the suit was at first sent to Mrs. Auchincloss’s home in Georgetown, but she is confident Mrs. Kennedy would have made the decision on where to send it. “Nobody would have made that decision for her,” she said.

字條上簡單地寫著：“杰奎琳1963年11月22日所穿套裝和所攜手袋。”究竟是奧金克洛斯做出了把衣物送交國家檔案館的決定，抑或如許多人所信，她是按照女兒的愿望這么做的，外界已無從得知。帕雷德斯在一次采訪中說，那件套裝最初被送到奧金克洛斯位于喬治敦的家，不過她確信，肯尼迪夫人對它的去向做出了決定。她說，“沒人能替她做這個決定。”

The Kennedy family never advised the archives about cleaning the suit, Ms. Murphy said, although leaving blood and other residue on garments is a standard conservation practice. “It’s part of the history of the object,” said Phyllis Magidson, curator of costume and textiles at the Museum of the City of New York. Ms. Murphy, who has seen the suit, said it essentially looks brand-new.

墨菲說，肯尼迪家族從未建議國家檔案館清洗套裝，盡管把血跡和其他殘留物留在衣物上是一種標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的保護做法。紐約市博物館(Museum of the City of New York)服裝和紡織品負責(zé)人菲莉絲·馬吉德松(Phyllis Magidson)說，“它們是這件物品歷史的一部分。”曾見過套裝的墨菲說，它看上去基本上依然是嶄新的。

For all Mrs. Kennedy’s visibility, it seems fitting that her pink suit should be hidden from view.

盡管肯尼迪夫人引人注目，但她的粉色套裝隱藏于公眾視線外似乎是合適的。

“She certainly understood invisibility and disappearance very deeply, as well as staged appearance,” said the cultural critic Wayne Koestenbaum, author of “Jackie Under My Skin: Interpreting an Icon.” “So the unseen suit is a very poignant and accurate emblem of her contradiction.”

文化評論員、《面具下的杰奎琳：偶像演繹》(Jackie Under My Skin: Interpreting an Icon)的作者韋恩·科斯騰鮑姆(Wayne Koestenbaum)說，“她無疑對不露面和消失有著極深的理解、對事先精心編排的亮相也是如此。所以，看不見的套裝是一件令人沉痛的紀(jì)念品，準(zhǔn)確象征著她生活中的矛盾”。

And noting that Mrs. Kennedy’s interest in historic preservation adds another facet to the suit’s status, Ms. Magidson said, “It has everything encapsulated within it.”

墨菲指出，肯尼迪夫人對文物保護的興趣給套裝的地位添加了另一個層面，她說，“這件套裝濃縮了一切。”

Curators cannot think of another historical garment imbued with more meaning, and also deemed too sensitive to be shown. Among items of apparel with similar resonance are garments worn in concentration camps and the tatters that remained after the atomic blasts in Japan. But these objects, while deeply affecting, are displayed in museums. Other examples mentioned by curators include Napoleon’s death coat, a shoe dropped by Marie Antoinette on the way to the guillotine and the suit and cloak Abraham Lincoln was wearing when he was assassinated.

博物館館長們想不出還有哪件歷史性服裝的內(nèi)涵能超過這件套裝，同時又因被認定過于敏感而無法公開。能形成類似震撼的衣物包括集中營里穿過的衣物，還有原子彈在日本爆炸后留下的破衣爛衫。然而這些感人至深的物品是在博物館里展出的。館長們提到的其他例子包括拿破侖死時穿的外套、瑪麗·安托瓦內(nèi)特 (Marie Antoinette)被押往斷頭臺途中掉下的一只鞋，以及阿伯拉罕·林肯(Abraham Lincoln)遇刺時穿的衣服和斗篷。

But when Lincoln was alive, relatively few Americans knew what he looked like. Besides, his image, even if it had been familiar, would hardly have compared to Mrs. Kennedy’s riveting beauty and pop culture celebrity. She was, as Norman Mailer said in a 1962 essay critical of her televised tour of the White House, “an institution being put together before our eyes.”

可是，林肯在世時，知道他模樣的美國人相對較少。而且，即使他的相貌為人熟知，也難以和肯尼迪夫人令人著迷的美貌和流行文化名人的身份相媲美。正如諾曼·梅勒(Norman Mailer)在1962年的一篇隨筆中，批評她電視直播的白宮之行時所說，她是“我們眼睜睜看著被制造出來的時尚。”

For that reason, combined with the fixation on President Kennedy’s assassination and a charged media culture, most experts believe that displaying her suit would be problematic. “It would produce hysteria if it were placed on view,” Ms. Magidson said.

由于這個原因，再加上公眾對肯尼迪總統(tǒng)遇刺的沉迷和情緒激烈的媒體文化，大多數(shù)專家認為，展出她的衣物會引發(fā)問題。馬吉德松說，“如果讓它公開展出，會導(dǎo)致人們情緒失控。”

Those who knew her say it is almost certain that Mrs. Kennedy played a role in nearly every step of the suit’s journey from Manhattan dress shop to Dallas, and eventually to the vault.

認識肯尼迪夫人的人說，幾乎可以肯定，這件套裝從曼哈頓的服裝店到達拉斯，最終抵達保險庫，肯尼迪夫人幾乎在每一個環(huán)節(jié)都扮演了一個角色。

She was a woman of meticulous organizational skills, who dictated to her White House secretary, Mary Barelli Gallagher, from her bed, and who dogged people with her morning memos. (Arthur M. Schlesinger Jr. once likened them to Churchill’s “Action This Day” memos during World War II.)

她是一個有著周密組織技能的女人。她會在床上向自己的白宮秘書瑪麗·巴雷利·加拉格爾(Mary Barelli Gallagher)下達指令，她的早間備忘錄也讓人應(yīng)付不暇。(小阿瑟·M·施萊辛格[Arthur M. Schlesinger Jr.]曾把它們比作丘吉爾[Churchill]在二戰(zhàn)期間的《今日行動》[Action This Day]備忘錄。)

Ms. Gallagher’s 1969 memoir, “My Life with Jacqueline Kennedy” makes a good companion to “The Death of a President,” by William Manchester, the one book on the assassination commissioned by the Kennedys. Loaded with details about Mrs. Kennedy’s work and personal habits, Ms. Gallagher’s memoir is sort of a backstairs view of the noble purposes that Mr. Manchester ascribes to her.

加拉格爾1969年出版的回憶錄《我和杰奎琳·肯尼迪在一起的生活》(My Life with Jacqueline Kennedy)堪稱威廉·曼徹斯特(William Manchester)《總統(tǒng)之死》(The Death of a President) 的姐妹篇。《總統(tǒng)之死》是由肯尼迪家族委托撰寫的唯一記述遇刺事件的書。加拉格爾的回憶錄里滿是有關(guān)肯尼迪夫人的工作和生活習(xí)慣的細節(jié)。曼徹斯特稱肯尼迪夫人有著崇高的目標(biāo)，而加拉格爾的回憶錄則像是對這些崇高目標(biāo)的幕后介紹。

For instance, he referred to Mrs. Kennedy as a “retiring” socialite who was transformed by loss, “a new Jackie.” But he did not consider that maybe the skills and determination that she used to hunt down clothes and furniture were the same qualities she magisterially deployed after the assassination.

比如，他稱肯尼迪夫人是“喜歡獨處”的社會名流，因失去丈夫而發(fā)生了重大變化，成了“新杰奎琳”。但他沒有考慮到，也許她在搜尋服飾和家具時所用的那些技巧和決心，與她在丈夫遇刺后展現(xiàn)的沉毅是相同的特質(zhì)。

And what about her stony refusal to change her clothes? Though describing White House duties, Ms. Gallagher offered many instances where Mrs. Kennedy had no compunction about saying no. She wrote, “If she didn’t want to participate in some activity, nothing could drive her to it.”

她堅決拒絕換衣服的行為該怎么解讀?盡管加拉格爾主要記載白宮的職責(zé)，但她也敘述了肯尼迪夫人毫無猶豫說不的許多事例。她寫道，“如果她不想?yún)⒓幽硞€活動，誰都別想勉強她去。”

The Manchester book described President Kennedy taking an unusual interest in what his wife planned to wear on the Texas trip, something he had never done in their marriage. He said to her, Mr. Manchester reported, “Be simple — show these Texans what good taste really is.”

根據(jù)曼徹斯特在書中的記載，肯尼迪總統(tǒng)對去德州時妻子計劃穿什么異常感興趣。在他們的婚后生活中，這是此前從未有過的事。曼徹斯特寫道，總統(tǒng)對妻子說，“穿簡單點兒，讓這些德州人知道什么是真正的好品味。”

Ms. Paredes, though not disputing the account, gives less significance to it: “Maybe the president told her to wear the suit. I don’t think she gave it a thought. It was a practical suit to travel in.”

盡管沒有質(zhì)疑這段記述，但帕雷德斯認為它沒那么重要：“或許總統(tǒng)讓她穿那件套裝。我覺得她沒有多想。那是一套在旅行時非常實用的套裝 。”

She added, “I did pack a lot of clothes for her, because you never know about the weather. The president called me on the phone. It was the last time I spoke to him. He said, ‘You know, it’s going to be hot in Texas.’ ”

她還補充說，“我的確給她打包了很多衣服，因為你永遠不知道天氣如何。總統(tǒng)給我打過電話。那是我最后一次和他說話。他說，‘你也知道，德州會很熱。’”