2014，一個(gè)折騰的時(shí)尚年

3. DESIGNER COMINGS AND GOINGS

3. 設(shè)計(jì)師來來去去

Even in fashion terms, it has been a year of designer musical chairs to an extent the industry has rarely seen. Some designers left brands to go to other brands, some simply left, and one returned. In February, Nicole and Michael Colovos left Helmut Lang; in June, Olivier Theyskens left Theory; and in July, it was announced that Christophe Lemaire would have his last Hermès show. In September, Jean Paul Gaultier announced his retirement from ready-to-wear; in November, Ralph Rucci said he was leaving the label that bears his name, and Marco Zanini was out at Schiaparelli; and in December, Kering announced that Frida Giannini would depart Gucci after 10 years at the label come February 2015. (Deep breath — there’s more.)

哪怕從時(shí)裝界的角度看，今年也是設(shè)計(jì)師搶椅子游戲最火爆的一年，火爆程度在時(shí)裝界也很少見。有些設(shè)計(jì)師離開某些品牌去其他品牌，有些就是離開了，有一個(gè)回歸了。2月，妮科爾和邁克爾·科洛沃斯(Nicole and Michael Colovos)離開海爾姆特·朗(Helmut Lang);6月，奧利維爾·泰斯金斯(Olivier Theyskens)離開希爾瑞(Theory);7月，克里斯托弗·勒梅爾(Christophe Lemaire)宣布將舉辦他的最后一場愛馬仕(Hermès)發(fā)布會(huì)。9月，讓·保羅·高緹耶(Jean Paul Gaultier)宣布從成衣部退休;11月，拉夫·魯奇(Ralph Rucci)稱將離開自己的同名品牌，馬可·薩尼尼(Marco Zanini)離開夏帕瑞麗(Schiaparelli);12月，開云集團(tuán)宣布弗里達(dá)·詹尼尼(Frida Giannini)將在古馳(Gucci)工作十年之后于2015年2月離開該品牌(喘口氣，后面還有)。

In October, Peter Copping left Nina Ricci to become the creative director of Oscar de la Renta, and Guillaume Henry announced he was leaving Carven to take Mr. Copping’s place at Ricci. Mulberry finally found a new creative director in the form of Céline’s accessory maestro, Johnny Coca (though he won’t start until next year), while Hermès appointed Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski as the artistic director of women’s wear, and Brooks Brothers signed up Zac Posen to be its women’s wear designer.

10月，彼得·科平(Peter Copping)離開蓮娜麗姿(Nina Ricci)，成為奧斯卡·德拉倫塔(Oscar de la Renta)的創(chuàng)意總監(jiān);紀(jì)堯姆·亨利(Guillaume Henry)宣布他將離開卡紛(Carven)，去蓮娜麗姿接替科平的職位。邁寶瑞(Mulberry)最終找到賽琳的配飾大師約翰尼·科卡 (Johnny Coca)擔(dān)任新創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)(不過他要到明年才上任)，愛馬仕(Hermès)任命納德格·范內(nèi)-齊布爾斯基(Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski)擔(dān)任女裝藝術(shù)總監(jiān)，布魯克斯兄弟(Brooks Brothers)簽約雇傭扎克·珀森(Zac Posen)擔(dān)任其女裝設(shè)計(jì)師。

The most splashy creative appointment of 2014, however, has to be John Galliano’s return after three years in the wilderness at the helm of Maison Martin Margiela. Though Anna Wintour, a.k.a. the most powerful woman in fashion, publicly embraced Mr. Galliano onstage at the British Fashion Awards in December, the jury is still out on whether the retail world, and consumers, have forgiven him for the drunken alleged anti-Semitic rant in 2011 that led to his firing from his former post as the artistic director at Christian Dior. The response to his first show, which will take place in London in January, will give us a clue.

不過，2014年最引人注目的任命是約翰·加利亞諾(John Galliano)在離開時(shí)裝界三年之后回來執(zhí)掌馬丁·馬吉拉(Maison Martin Margiela)。盡管時(shí)尚界最有權(quán)勢的女人安娜·溫圖爾(Anna Wintour)在12月英國時(shí)尚大獎(jiǎng)的頒獎(jiǎng)臺上公開擁抱加利亞諾，但零售業(yè)和顧客們能否原諒他2011年醉酒后的反猶太言論尚未可知，那一言論導(dǎo)致他從克里斯汀·迪奧藝術(shù)總監(jiān)的職位上遭到解雇。明年1月將舉辦他上任后的倫敦首秀，屆時(shí)人們的反應(yīng)，將讓我們對此問題略知一二。

As for the most wrenching farewells, they were to L’Wren Scott, who committed suicide in March at age 49, and Oscar de la Renta, the New York Fashion Week pillar who died in October at 82. Both sent the fashion world into mourning, though Mr. de la Renta’s death had repercussions far beyond. Often pigeonholed as the chief couturier to the ladies who lunch, Mr. de la Renta actually had an aesthetic whose influence defined multiple political regimes, celebrities and generations, from Jacqueline Kennedy to Laura Bush, Marissa Mayer to Nicki Minaj. His memorial, held in November, was the equivalent of a state occasion, with speakers that included Hillary Rodham Clinton, Henry Kissinger and Michael Bloomberg. When it comes to both designers, we know will not see their like again.

而最令人心碎的告別是3月份49歲的勞倫·斯科特(L’Wren Scott)自殺，10月份82歲的紐約時(shí)裝周巨擘奧斯卡·德拉倫塔去世。他們兩位讓時(shí)尚界陷入悲痛，不過德拉倫塔逝世的反響更為深遠(yuǎn)。德拉倫塔經(jīng)常被稱為午宴女士的首席設(shè)計(jì)師，但實(shí)際上他的審美影響了很多政要、名人和世家，從杰奎琳·肯尼迪(Jacqueline Kennedy)、勞拉·布什(Laura Bush)、瑪麗莎·梅耶爾(Marissa Mayer)到妮琪·米娜(Nicki Minaj)。他11月份的追悼會(huì)無異于一場國事活動(dòng)，發(fā)言人包括希拉里·羅德姆·克林頓(Hillary Rodham Clinton)、亨利·基辛格(Henry Kissinger)和邁克爾·布隆伯格(Michael Bloomberg)。我們知道再也不會(huì)有像他們這樣的設(shè)計(jì)師了。