紐約時(shí)裝周在遵守社交距離的條件下回歸

紐約時(shí)裝周在遵守社交距離的條件下回歸

It is looking to be a fashion month like no other. The coronavirus pandemic has upended the traditional runway format, and in its place a mix of virtual and, in some cases, physical shows with limited audience numbers has started to roll out.

這是一個(gè)與眾不同的時(shí)尚月。冠狀病毒流行病顛覆了傳統(tǒng)的走秀模式，取而代之的是一場(chǎng)觀眾人數(shù)有限的虛擬秀，以及在某些情況下的實(shí)體秀。

New York Fashion Week (NYFW) arrived first, running from September 13 to 17 ahead of London, Milan and Paris.

紐約時(shí)裝周(NYFW)最先到來(lái)，從9月13日持續(xù)到17日，排在倫敦、米蘭和巴黎之前。

Organizers adapted to circumstances by hosting a number of outdoor events, and Jason Wu opened the schedule with a runway show on the rooftop of Spring Studios in Manhattan. He showed his Spring-Summer 2021 collection to a socially distanced crowd of just 30 people, sending models such as Indya Moore down a plant-filled set inspired by the Mexican town of Tulum.

主辦方通過(guò)舉辦一些戶(hù)外活動(dòng)來(lái)適應(yīng)環(huán)境，吳季剛在曼哈頓春天工作室的屋頂上舉辦了一場(chǎng)時(shí)裝秀，拉開(kāi)了日程。他展示了自己的2021春夏系列，當(dāng)時(shí)的觀眾只有30人，并保持社會(huì)距離，讓英迪亞·摩爾等模特沿著一個(gè)充滿(mǎn)植物的布景走了下來(lái)，這個(gè)布景的靈感來(lái)自墨西哥的圖倫鎮(zhèn)。

Returning designers include Anna Sui and Chromat, with digital presentations, while a number of notable NYFW regulars like Michael Korsdidn't participate this time around.

回歸(時(shí)裝周)的設(shè)計(jì)師包括安娜·蘇和宙馬特，他們都進(jìn)行了數(shù)字化展示，而邁克爾·科爾斯等著名的紐約時(shí)裝周?？瓦@次沒(méi)有參加。

Meanwhile, popular social media app TikTok is looking to engage Gen-Z audiences through its own online fashion month, partnering with labels such as Louis Vuitton, Alice + Olivia and Saint Laurent, among others, to livestream runway shows and present capsule collections.

與此同時(shí)，廣受歡迎的社交媒體應(yīng)用TikTok也希望通過(guò)自己的在線時(shí)尚月來(lái)吸引Z世代的觀眾，與路易威登、愛(ài)麗絲+奧利維亞和圣羅蘭等品牌合作，直播時(shí)裝秀和展示迷你系列。

To broadcast the virtual events at NYFW, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) created Runway360, a digital platform to show new collections or other creative projects. And although the usually star-studded fashion week will be wholly different this year, the switch to virtual may also make for more sustainable presentations -- a recent report by Ordre, which specializes in online showrooms, found that international fashion weeks emit the same volume of greenhouse gases annually as a small country.

為了在紐約時(shí)裝秀上播放這些虛擬活動(dòng)，美國(guó)時(shí)裝設(shè)計(jì)師協(xié)會(huì)(CFDA)創(chuàng)建了Runway360，一個(gè)展示新收藏或其他創(chuàng)意項(xiàng)目的數(shù)字平臺(tái)。盡管通常明星云集的時(shí)裝周今年將完全不同，但轉(zhuǎn)向虛擬化也可能使展示更具可持續(xù)性——專(zhuān)門(mén)從事在線展示的Ordre最近的一份報(bào)告發(fā)現(xiàn)，國(guó)際時(shí)裝周每年排放的溫室氣體量與小國(guó)相當(dāng)。

Many people are still spending a lot of time at home due to the global pandemic, but judging by some of the collections this season, designers are hoping that by spring 2021 our lives will demand glamorous ensembles.

由于全球流行病，許多人仍有很多時(shí)間待在家里，但從本季的一些系列來(lái)看，設(shè)計(jì)師們希望到2021年春季，我們的生活將需要迷人的套裝。

Wu wasn't the only designer with an escapist mindset. Dreams of better times and of jetting off to far-flung oases were visible in several collections, from Badgley Mischka's bright and luxurious gowns to Naeem Khan's intricate hand-beaded tops and dresses.

吳季剛并不是唯一一個(gè)逃避現(xiàn)實(shí)的設(shè)計(jì)師。從貝格利·米施卡明亮奢華的禮服，到納伊姆·可汗復(fù)雜的手工串珠上衣和連衣裙，人們可以在幾個(gè)時(shí)裝系列中看到對(duì)美好時(shí)光的夢(mèng)想和乘飛機(jī)飛往遙遠(yuǎn)的綠洲的夢(mèng)想。

NYFW's digital format offers emerging designers a chance to shine without having to invest in expensive live shows. Ten new American brands showed this week, including former Yeezy designer Maisie Schloss, who created a collection for her label Maisie Wilen featuring larger-than-life boots and shimmery tinfoil-like yet fluid dresses.

紐約時(shí)裝周的數(shù)字形式為新興設(shè)計(jì)師提供了一個(gè)不必投資昂貴的現(xiàn)場(chǎng)表演就能脫穎而出的機(jī)會(huì)。本周，10個(gè)新的美國(guó)品牌參展，其中包括前Yeezy設(shè)計(jì)師麥茜·施洛斯，她為自己的品牌麥茜·威倫設(shè)計(jì)了一個(gè)系列，以具有傳奇色彩的靴子和閃閃發(fā)光的錫紙狀連衣裙為特色。