法國總統(tǒng)馬克龍為何從不松領(lǐng)帶？

That tie. He just won’t take it off, even when picking his way in sweltering heat through the rubble left by Hurricane Irma on the French Caribbean island of St. Martin.

那領(lǐng)帶，他是不會摘掉的。就算在酷熱的天氣中視察受颶風艾爾瑪襲擊的加勒比海圣馬丁島上災(zāi)情時也是一樣。

President Emmanuel Macron has shaken French politics to its core but dares not breach the dress code for a French chief of state. The tie, preferably dark, is de rigueur.

法國總統(tǒng)馬克龍顛覆了法國的政治傳統(tǒng)，卻不敢違背法國國家元首的著裝規(guī)則。領(lǐng)帶，最好為深色，是社交禮儀中的必備之物。

King Willem-Alexander of the Netherlands also flew to St. Martin to assess damage. He wore a khaki-colored shirt, sleeves rolled to the elbows — and no necktie.

荷蘭國王威廉-亞歷山大也到訪圣馬丁視察災(zāi)情。他身著卡其色襯衣，袖子挽至手肘，沒有打領(lǐng)帶。

“He’s a real king. He doesn’t need to post signs to show his stature,” said Jamil Dakhlia, a Sorbonne University sociologist specializing in political communications.

巴黎索邦大學(xué)政治傳播社會學(xué)專家賈米勒•達赫利亞說：“威廉-亞歷山大是真正的國王，不需要在形象上體現(xiàn)自己的身份。”

The French Revolution ended the country’s monarchy in 1789. The French presidency remains powerful but there is “a need to show with symbols one’s legitimacy. So, you must keep the tie on,” Dakhlia explained.

1789年法國大革命結(jié)束了法國的君主政體。法國總統(tǒng)一直大權(quán)在握，但是，達赫利亞解釋說，“有必要通過一些象征彰顯正統(tǒng)性，所以必須打領(lǐng)帶”。

The Dutch king also is not a 39-year-old former investment banker looking to upset the political system with his upstart centrist party and planning to undo France’s nearly sacrosanct labor laws — all while sliding in popularity.

今年39歲的馬克龍，曾在投行工作。盡管上任后民意支持率不斷下滑，但馬克龍仍試圖改革現(xiàn)有政治體制，帶領(lǐng)異軍突起的中間派政黨，改革法國幾乎神圣不可侵犯的勞動法。這些，都不是荷蘭國王面臨的問題。

Conscious of his baggage, Macron donned a tie while campaigning and has kept it on ever since, even during events in which sartorial elegance might be understandably cast aside.

馬克龍清楚自己的責任所在，從競選時就一直打著領(lǐng)帶，甚至是在大家都可以理解不用打領(lǐng)帶的場合也是如此。

There he was in April, before his May election, in a coat and tie trying to talk down screaming angry factory workers outside their Whirlpool plant.

今年4月，總統(tǒng)大選前一個月，馬克龍在惠而浦工廠外，穿著西裝打著領(lǐng)帶，試圖說服群情激奮的憤怒工人們。

Two months later, as president, he was playing tennis — sans vest but with a tie — from a wheelchair alongside disabled athletes to promote Paris’ bid to host the 2024 Olympics. The French capital went on to win the opportunity.

兩個月后，已當選總統(tǒng)的他為了推動巴黎申辦2024年奧運會，坐上輪椅同殘疾運動員一起打網(wǎng)球，沒穿運動背心但卻打著領(lǐng)帶。巴黎之后贏得了這次舉辦權(quán)。

On Monday, Macron, doubtless wearing a thin dark tie, attended his first UN General Assembly in New York. There he also met with President Donald Trump, who is known to have a penchant for long neckties, often red or blue.

馬克龍于18日在美國紐約首次出席聯(lián)合國大會，毫無疑問打著細窄的黑色領(lǐng)帶。他還會見了美國總統(tǒng)特朗普，眾所周知特朗普酷愛紅色或藍色的長領(lǐng)帶。

In St. Martin for two days, the French president trudged through debris on the devastated island wearing a dark tie over a white shirt, the sleeves rolled up in the smothering heat and humidity but mysteriously always crisp-looking.

在圣馬丁視察的兩天里，馬克龍身穿白色襯衣打著黑色領(lǐng)帶在被颶風襲擊的島嶼斷壁殘垣中跋涉，袖子挽起，與濕熱難耐的畫風有些格格不入。

“What surprised me the most was that he took off his suit jacket,” said Dakhlia.

達赫利亞說：“他竟然脫掉了西服外套。這是最讓我意外的”。

“For a long time … (Macron) was accused of not having legitimacy, of being too young, with no real political capital,” Dakhlia noted, saying Macron would have removed his tie at his peril. “If he had done it … it would have been noted as a way to try to be close to the people, as insincere stagecraft.”

達赫利亞說：“馬克龍作為總統(tǒng)的資質(zhì)一直飽受質(zhì)疑，人們覺得他太年輕，缺乏真正的政治資本。”他說，如果馬克龍松開領(lǐng)帶，那無疑是在冒險。“如果他松開領(lǐng)帶，就會被視為想和民眾親近，是虛假的作秀。”

The Western neck tie is widely considered to have its origins with 17th-century Croatian mercenaries, wearing colorful neck bands, during the Thirty Years War between European powers. The neck band evolved and spread.

人們通常認為，西式領(lǐng)帶源于17世紀克羅地亞雇傭兵衣領(lǐng)上各種色彩的圍頸帶，當時正值歐洲各大國的三十年戰(zhàn)爭期間。隨后圍頸帶發(fā)展為領(lǐng)帶，并流行起來。

Today, the wardrobe of French leaders, tie included, is scrutinized by journalists deciphering the strengths and weaknesses of their chiefs of state. Macron’s ties have grown darker and thinner as president and the knots he used to use in his banking days have changed.

如今，記者們緊盯法國總統(tǒng)的領(lǐng)帶等服飾，以此解讀總統(tǒng)的優(yōu)點和弱點。如今，馬克龍的領(lǐng)帶顏色更深、樣式更窄，領(lǐng)結(jié)也與在投行從業(yè)時經(jīng)常佩戴的不同。

Macron may have taken a clue from his unpopular predecessor, Francois Hollande, who had endless bad tie days.

上任總統(tǒng)弗朗索瓦•奧朗德因領(lǐng)帶而被吐槽的經(jīng)歷或許能給馬克龍帶來一些啟發(fā)。

Hollande’s cravat was always crooked and he became the butt of jokes. A website was even started, francois-tacravate.fr, which graded the appearance of Hollande’s ties on each public outing.

在法國媒體眼里，奧朗德的領(lǐng)帶總沒有戴正，因此遭人嘲笑。法國甚至有一家網(wǎng)站專門給他每次亮相時戴的領(lǐng)帶打分。

But even as a rookie president, Hollande knew the French dress code. He was the only world leader at a 2012 G-8 summit at Camp David, just after his election, to show up wearing a necktie.

但即使是剛上任時，奧朗德也深知法國的著裝規(guī)范。2012年八國集團峰會在美國戴維營召開，奧朗德是唯一一位佩戴領(lǐng)帶出席的領(lǐng)導(dǎo)人，當時他剛剛上任。

“Francois, we said you could take off the tie,” the host, then-President Barack Obama, joked.

作為東道主，時任美國總統(tǒng)奧巴馬開玩笑說，“弗朗索瓦，我們覺得你可以把領(lǐng)帶解開”。

Hollande refused, saying that it’s “for my press!”

奧朗德拒絕了，說這是“為媒體打的”。