我的東京美食地圖

Tokyo is like my second home after Reims. It’s where I started my career in champagne in the early 1990s. Japan was a very small market for champagne then. Today it is by far our biggest market, and I feel very attached to Tokyo as a city. It is a fantastic, multi-layered place. You have to be patient and learn how to reveal each of the layers. If you are not open-minded, you probably won’t get there, but as soon as you understand, it’s completely endless. Life can go from ultimate refinement to crazy moments.

東京，是我老家蘭斯(Reims)之外的第二故鄉(xiāng)，上世紀(jì)90年代，我正是在這里開(kāi)始香檳酒這個(gè)行當(dāng)。當(dāng)時(shí)的日本在公司銷(xiāo)售版圖上是個(gè)很不起眼的角色，如今它是我們公司的最大市場(chǎng)。我對(duì)東京這個(gè)城市也已是難以割舍：它是個(gè)美不勝收的多層次多元化城市，有足夠耐心的人才能深入了解其各個(gè)層面。理念不開(kāi)放的人則可能難以企及，但一旦深入了解，東京就會(huì)展現(xiàn)無(wú)窮魅力與內(nèi)涵。從無(wú)限精致到瘋狂瞬間的生活應(yīng)有盡有。

— My local friends tell me where to meet. Tokyo is very much about having a good Japanese friend to show you the unexpected places. I love eating a bowl of ramen noodles with them late at night, sometimes at just a hole in the wall. Ippudo Ginza, in the heart of the city, is open until 3am.

——日本友人告訴我的美食好去處。有位日本好友帶你逛東京意想不到的餐館，東京真的是妙不可言。我愛(ài)與他們大半夜去吃拉面，有時(shí)甚至只是光顧一個(gè)簡(jiǎn)陋小店。位于市中心風(fēng)堂拉面銀座店(Ippudo Ginza)一直營(yíng)業(yè)至凌晨三點(diǎn)。

— In the Imperial Hotel, I love Kitcho (pictured above), which is a branch of the original Kitcho in Osaka. Very traditional but brilliant.

——我最?lèi)?ài)東京帝國(guó)酒店(Imperial Hotel)的吉兆料理(Kitcho)，它是大阪(Osaka)老店開(kāi)設(shè)的分店，此處的料理既傳統(tǒng)又超贊。

— Another place I love is Kanda. Outside there is just one kanji character to announce its presence; if you walk too fast, you miss it. I love sitting at the counter — you can smell the freshness of the ingredients — and they sell some great sakes. Try the crispy eryngii mushrooms with shirako (milt of the male cod). The chef at Kanda is a friend and he takes me to some great places — last time we had spicy gyoza at Cave Cinderella in Roppongi.

——我青睞的另一美食好去處是神田餐廳(Kanda)。它的店門(mén)外只掛了個(gè)漢字招牌，行色匆匆者容易走過(guò)。我喜歡坐在柜臺(tái)邊——可聞到新鮮食材的清香——它還賣(mài)很棒的米酒。諸位可以嘗嘗白子(shirako，雄鱈魚(yú)的精囊)鹽酥杏鮑菇。神田的大廚是我的朋友，他帶我逛過(guò)很多美食店——上次，我倆品嘗了六本木(Roppongi)Cave Cinderella的辣餃子。

— My home from home would be the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. The bar is very lively, you have one of the best Chinese restaurants in the city, and you can see Mount Fuji from the lobby.

——最讓我感到賓至如歸的地方莫過(guò)于東京的文華東方酒店(Mandarin Oriental Hotel)，它的酒吧人頭攢動(dòng)，這兒有全東京最好的中餐館，從酒店大堂還可以遠(yuǎn)眺美麗的富士山。

For Tokyo details go to ft.com/myaddresses

更多東京美食好去處，請(qǐng)瀏覽以下網(wǎng)址：ft.com/myaddresses。

Olivier Krug is director of Krug Champagne

奧利維耶•庫(kù)克是庫(kù)克香檳酒業(yè)總監(jiān)。