特朗普的衣服為何總是大一號？

Donald Trump's clothes do not fit him.This fact has not been widely noticed, which is unsurprising.In a fight for attention, his outfit was always going to come in a distant fourth, behind his bouffant, his spray tan, and whatever last tumbled out of his mouth.

唐納德·特朗普的衣服總是不合體。大多數(shù)人并沒注意到這個情況，這一點都不出乎意料。在博選民眼球的激烈選戰(zhàn)中，其一身行頭的關(guān)注度只排到第四位，排在他一頭蓬發(fā)、噴抹的褐色皮膚以及信口雌黃之后。

Yet the clothes reward study.The shoulders of his suits are too wide by at least a size, and slump over to the side.The jackets are a solid inch too long, and billow.The trousers, through bagginess, manage to look worn out, though they are not.

然而衣妝值得細(xì)細(xì)研究一番。特朗普的西服肩部寬得都向兩邊溜開，至少寬出一個尺碼；夾克衫足足寬出了一英寸，顯得鼓囊；寬松的褲子盡管并非舊貨，但怎么看都像舊的。

Slipshod sizing does not prove that Trump is poorly dressed.For there are good clothes and bad clothes, and then there are clothes well and badly worn, which are something else altogether.The two distinctions overlap, in fact, rendering four possible modes of dress.

衣服尺碼馬虎草率并不能證明特朗普乃衣衫襤褸之輩。因為生活中的衣妝既有檔次高低之分，還有得體之別，兩者完全是兩碼事。

Good/well-worn clothes are attractive, well-fitting and carried off with verve.Then there is bad/well-worn：ugly or ill-fitting clothes that nonetheless project the desired image.A familiar mixture of money, vanity and sartorial incompetence generates good/badly worn clothes.Bad/badly worn is more familiar still, and is just what the name says it is.

高檔時裝若再加上得體，自然風(fēng)度翩翩、氣度不凡；但有錢、虛榮，卻對著裝搭配一竅不通，結(jié)果往往就是高檔時裝穿出差強人意的效果，這也十分常見。

Keeping the discussion political, Ronald Reagan is a prime example of good/well-worn.There is a famous portrait of the former president on the White House colonnade in a brown suit.Brown suits are, traditionally, something of a joke.Looking at this one on Reagan—with a white shirt, a dark green tie, and glistening brown shoes—I have a powerful urge to own one just like it.Reagan knew how to wear a suit to accentuate his height and leanness without looking forced or pretentious.It is a trick that the current president emulates.

光從政治范疇來衡量，前里根總統(tǒng)是高檔時裝與搭配得體的典范。白宮的柱廊上掛著他那張身穿棕色西裝的著名照片。從傳統(tǒng)意義上說，穿棕色西裝顯得不夠嚴(yán)肅。但看到它穿在里根總統(tǒng)身上的效果——再配以白襯衣、深綠領(lǐng)帶以及锃亮的棕色皮鞋——我立馬萌生了也想整上一套的強烈愿望。里根清楚如何穿西服方能突顯自己的瘦高身材，同時又不顯得咄咄逼人與自命不凡。這是當(dāng)今總統(tǒng)們應(yīng)該學(xué)習(xí)效仿的著裝訣竅。

Hillary Clinton, surprisingly, may also fit best in the good/well-worn box.After a long career marked by some shocking failures of dress, she has settled down.Her clothes are well-tailored and offset her fundamentally awkward presence with simple designs and strong colours.She will never look great, but after decades in front of the camera she picks clothes that help her look as good as she possibly can.

希拉里·克林頓或許也可歸在高檔時裝與搭配得體的一類里，這有些出人意料。在其長期從政生涯中，曾出現(xiàn)多次令人瞠目結(jié)舌的著裝“敗招”，但如今的她已深諳此道。她的衣妝做工考究，用簡潔的設(shè)計與亮麗的色彩很好彌補了其與生俱來的風(fēng)度欠缺。她永遠(yuǎn)不顯高貴，但與新聞媒體了幾十年交道后，她精心挑選的裝束讓其形象“完美無缺”。

Reagan's friend and political adversary, Tip O'Neill, was a perfect case of bad/well-worn.The house speaker tended to look like a load of unironed laundry—and this contributed to his presence rather than detracting from it.In a 1976 portrait of O'Neill by Richard Avedon, his plaid suit combines hollow-looking shoulders with snugness across the midsection.The collar fails to lie flat at the back of the neck.Just enough of his trousers are visible to reveal they are too tight.He looks wonderful.The offness of the suit conveys substance and humanity, and matches an equally rumpled but serious expression.In his own way, he knew how to wear clothes.

里根的好友與政敵蒂普·奧尼爾則是把低檔貨穿得很好的“典范”。這位眾議院前議長總是一幅皺巴巴的行頭——而這卻讓其形象加分而非減損。在理查德·阿威頓于1976年為其拍攝的一張照片中，奧尼爾的格子呢西裝肩部顯得松松垮垮，但卻緊貼著腹部，西裝領(lǐng)子在脖梗部一點都不平展。隨便瞄一眼他穿的褲子，就明顯看出它們太過緊致。他長相俊朗，但不得體的西裝卻表露了他的品行以及仁愛之心，這倒與他的一張皺巴、但無比莊重的臉相十分般配。奧尼爾用自己的獨特方式展示了該如何著裝。

In politics, nice clothes are rarely combined with a failed personal style.The effect of good/badly worn clothes would be political poison.Wearing good clothes without élan is to be instantaneously revealed as humourless and self-deluding.Good/badly worn clothes are found in the highest density on Wall Street, where custom suits and beautiful Hermès ties sit dispiritedly on men who would only look at home in a lacrosse uniform.A politician who fell into a similar trap would soon be looking for a different profession.

在政界，有時尚感的衣服往往只能塑造出失敗的個人風(fēng)格。高檔時裝穿得不得體，對政治人物有百害而無一利。精氣神欠缺的人穿時尚感強的衣服，立馬顯得毫無幽默感，甚至還有點自欺欺人。把高檔衣服穿得很不得體的人，在美國華爾街比比皆是：定制西服與漂亮的愛馬仕領(lǐng)帶穿在那些只對曲棍球運動裝感興趣的男人身上，常常顯得沒精打采。而犯同樣錯誤的政客用不了多久就得另謀出路。

Finally, bad/badly worn：here sits Bernie Sanders, in a frumpy suit, a button collar and an indifferent tie, badly dressed and with an academic physical presentation.There is no shame in this category when you mean to be in it.Sanders has no style, and dares you to make an issue of it, because it is his principles that matter.（It is tempting, and quite wrong, to suggest that total indifference is a style in itself, as anyone who has spent time in academia can attest.）

最后一類人是穿不得體的低檔時裝：伯尼·桑德斯就是個現(xiàn)成例子，他穿著古板西服與紐扣領(lǐng)襯衣、系著很劣質(zhì)的領(lǐng)帶；他著裝不當(dāng)，還儼然一副指點江山的學(xué)究樣。如果桑德斯自己就想歸入此類，倒也無可厚非。桑德斯沒有自己的著裝風(fēng)格，而且敢于對此借題發(fā)揮，因為他最看重的是自己秉持的原則。（對著裝完全無動于衷本身也是一種時尚風(fēng)格，這樣的說法頗有市場，卻是大錯特錯。）

So, is Trump a bad/well-worn dresser or a bad/badly worn one? It is hard to say.He may go to a tailor perfectly capable of cutting him a suit that fits, if broader shoulders and fuller pants were not requested specially.Maybe Trump has found that his particular brand of bad clothes works beautifully for him.There is no doubting that his total image has succeeded spectacularly in its own vulgar terms.Alternatively, his undoubtedly expensive tailor may be making a fool of his client by playing to his bloated sense of self.

那么，特朗普是屬于把低檔時裝穿得好的，還是穿得不好的？這實在是說不清、道不明。寬肩與肥褲若無特定要求，他可以找位非常擅長量體裁衣的定制裁縫師。也許特朗普認(rèn)為自己與眾不同的糟糕行頭正中下懷。毫無疑問，他的總體粗俗形象圓滿實現(xiàn)了自己的目的。換言之，要價不菲的定制裁縫師（毫無疑問）也許通過讓特朗普盡情發(fā)揮自我膨脹的個性，也許只是讓自己的這位客戶出盡了洋相。

Trump's politics are bearable only if he does not mean all the awful nonsense he says.His clothes are the opposite：they are admirable only if he means them to be every bit as awful as they are.

特朗普那些聳人聽聞的胡話如果僅是胡噴而已，那么世人尚可容忍其政治觀點。其著裝則正相反：如果他就想把自己的不得體行頭“進(jìn)行到底”，那么它們倒值得大贊特贊。

詞匯總結(jié)

bouffant['bu:f??]

adj.張大的，鼓脹的，柔軟而膨松的;百褶

In a fight for attention, his outfit was always going to come in a distant fourth, behind his bouffant, his spray tan, and whatever last tumbled out of his mouth.

在博選民眼球的激烈選戰(zhàn)中，其一身行頭的關(guān)注度只排到第四位，排在他一頭蓬發(fā)、噴抹的褐色皮膚以及信口雌黃之后。

slipshod[?sl?p??d]

adj.馬虎的，隨便的，草率的

Slipshod sizing does not prove that Trump is poorly dressed.

衣服尺碼馬虎草率并不能證明特朗普乃衣衫襤褸之輩。

sartorial[sɑ:?t?:ri?l]

adj.（男子）服裝的，縫紉的

A familiar mixture of money, vanity and sartorial incompetence generates good/badly worn clothes.

但有錢、虛榮，卻對著裝搭配一竅不通，結(jié)果往往就是高檔時裝穿出差強人意的效果，這也十分常見。

snugness

緊貼合身;舒適

In a 1976 portrait of O'Neill by Richard Avedon, his plaid suit combines hollow-looking shoulders with snugness across the midsection.

在理查德·阿威頓于1976年為其拍攝的一張照片中，奧尼爾的格子呢西裝肩部顯得松松垮垮，但卻緊貼著腹部，西裝領(lǐng)子在脖梗部一點都不平展。