坦-瓊斯：心理健康不是時尚

Model Ayesha Tan-Jones staged a protest against Gucci while walking in the brand's runway show during Milan Fashion Week.

在米蘭時裝周期間，模特艾依莎·坦-瓊斯在古馳的時裝秀上對古馳提出抗議。

Tan-Jones, who identifies as non-binary and uses they/them pronouns, said they were speaking out against the company's use of straitjackets in its spring/summer 2020 collection.

坦-瓊斯自稱為非二元性別者(也就是男女之外的第三種性別)，用“they/them”(他們)來代指自己，并表示反對該公司在2020年春夏新品秀上使用緊身衣(有時用以束縛精神病患者)。

During the show, they held up their palms to reveal the words, "Mental health is not fashion." Tan-Jones explained their decision in a lengthy statement posted to Instagram Sunday.

在這場秀上，坦-瓊斯舉起雙手，上面寫著“心理健康不是時尚。”周日坦-瓊斯在Ins上發(fā)表了一份長篇聲明，解釋了這一決定。

"I chose to protest the Gucci S/S/ 2020 runway show as I believe, as many of my fellow models do, that the stigma around mental health must end," they wrote.

“我選擇在古馳2020年春夏新品秀上抗議，因為許多和我一起走秀的模特和我都認(rèn)為這種對精神健康的偏見必須結(jié)束，”坦-瓊斯寫道。

"As an artist and model who has experienced my own struggles with mental health, as well as family members and loved ones who have been affected by depression, anxiety, bipolar and schizophrenia, it is hurtful and insensitive for a major fashion house such as Gucci to use this imagery as a concept for a fleeting fashion moment."

“作為一名藝術(shù)家兼模特，我也與心理疾病抗?fàn)庍^，我的家人和親人也曾遭受過抑郁癥、焦慮、躁郁癥和精神分裂癥的折磨。而像古馳這樣的大型時尚公司卻在短暫的時尚瞬間把這種意象當(dāng)成一種概念，這是既傷人又麻木不仁。”

Tan-Jones, who described themselves as an artist and musician, said straitjackets were "a symbol of a cruel time" in medicine's history when mental illness wasn't "understood."

自稱為藝術(shù)家兼音樂家的坦-瓊斯表示，在醫(yī)學(xué)史上，緊身衣是“殘酷時代的象征”，當(dāng)時人們對精神疾病并不“了解”。

"It is in bad taste for Gucci to use the imagery of straitjackets and outfits alluding to mental patients, while being rolled out on a conveyor belt as if a piece of factory meat," Tan-Jones said.

“古馳讓我們穿著暗指精神病人的緊身衣套裝，還像工廠中加工的肉一樣由傳送帶輸送入場，這很沒品味，”坦-瓊斯說道。

"Presenting these struggles as props for selling clothes in today's capitalist climate is vulgar, unimaginative and offensive to the millions of people around the world affected by these issues."

“對全球數(shù)百萬被這些問題所困擾的人來說，在當(dāng)前的資本環(huán)境下，把這樣的掙扎當(dāng)成服裝銷售的道具既庸俗、無趣又無禮。”

Tan-Jones later wrote in a separate Instagram post that they, as well as other models, chose to donate part of their fees to mental health charities.

坦-瓊斯之后在Ins上又發(fā)了一篇帖子并寫道，她和其他模特決定把古馳時裝秀的部分出場費捐給心理健康慈善機(jī)構(gòu)。

Gucci said in an Instagram post Sunday, "uniforms, utilitarian clothes, normative dress, including straitjackets," were included in the show "as the most extreme version of a uniform dictated by society and those who control it."

周日古馳在Ins的一篇帖子中表示，古馳在時裝秀上加入了“制服、實用服裝、標(biāo)準(zhǔn)服裝以及緊身衣，并把它們作為由社會以及那些控制它的人所決定的制服的極端版本。”

The brand added that the specific clothes were just a statement for the show, designed by the company's creative director Alessandro Michele and will not be sold.

該品牌補(bǔ)充道，這些特定的服裝只是該公司創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)亞歷山德羅·米歇爾為這場秀設(shè)計的一種表現(xiàn)形式，這些服裝并不會出售。