霍爾斯頓重新定義了美國的時尚的

霍爾斯頓重新定義了美國的時尚的

Halston, who made hats for New York's high society in the early 1960s before becoming a household name, was invited to a grand meal at a client's house in Long Island. As they sat down to eat, two men remained standing, refusing to be seated unless Halston and another diner -- whom they attacked with homophobic insults -- were removed.

霍爾斯頓在20世紀(jì)60年代初為紐約上流社會制作帽子，后來成為家喻戶曉的人物，他應(yīng)邀在長島的一位客戶家里吃了一頓豐盛的晚餐。當(dāng)他們坐下來吃飯時，兩名男子仍然站著，拒絕坐下(他們對霍爾斯頓和另一名用餐者進(jìn)行了恐同侮辱)，除非趕走他們。

"Tom," Fallon recalls Halston saying to him, "I just need you to understand that you and I could not hope to be anything more than trained fa**ot poodles to jump through the hoops of these rich people."

法倫回憶起霍爾斯頓對他說:“湯姆，我只是想讓你明白，你和我都不能指望自己能成為訓(xùn)練有素的貴賓犬，能從這些富人的圈子里跳出來。

But Halston would prove his own pessimism wrong in almost every way. Over the next two decades, he rose to become perhaps the single most influential figure in the history of American fashion.

但霍爾斯頓幾乎在所有方面證明了自己的悲觀主義是錯誤的。在接下來的20年里，他成長為美國時裝史上最有影響力的人物之一。

The first superstar fashion designer

第一位超級時裝設(shè)計(jì)師

At the dawn of the 1960s, old rules were already being broken -- and Halston would do as much as anyone in fashion to usher in the radical changes that followed. By the 1970s, he had created a style that spoke to the freedom and youthful energy of the disco generation, becoming the decade's "quintessential designer," says Patricia Mears, deputy director of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York.

在20世紀(jì)60年代初，舊的規(guī)則已經(jīng)被打破了，而霍爾斯頓將和時尚界的任何一個人一樣，竭盡全力引領(lǐng)隨后發(fā)生的根本性變革。紐約時裝技術(shù)學(xué)院(FIT)博物館副館長帕特里夏•米爾斯表示，到上世紀(jì)70年代，他創(chuàng)造了一種風(fēng)格，反映了迪斯科一代的自由和年輕活力，成為那個年代的“典型設(shè)計(jì)師”。

"He was the great shooting star of fashion in the 1970s and early 1980s, but he burned out very quickly too," says Mears.

“在上世紀(jì)70年代和80年代初，他是時尚界的一顆偉大的流星，但他也很快就消耗殆盡了，”米爾斯說。

"The things that we see today -- designers becoming part of large conglomerates, growing their companies so that they're worth billions of dollars -- (were) probably made easier because of Halston's efforts. He was the first to really build a business in the United States to that level, and he was the first to really crash and burn."

“我們今天看到的事情——設(shè)計(jì)師們成為大型企業(yè)集團(tuán)的一部分，讓他們的公司成長，使它們的價值達(dá)到數(shù)十億美元——可能因?yàn)榛魻査诡D的努力而變得更容易。他是第一個真正在美國建立起這種水平的企業(yè)的人，也是第一個真正崩潰和崩潰的人。

Throughout the 1970s, Halston was often flanked by a squad of models and celebrities, including Anjelica Huston, Bianca Jagger and Liza Minnelli.

整個20世紀(jì)70年代，霍爾斯頓身邊經(jīng)常有一群模特和名人，包括安杰莉卡·休斯頓、比安卡·賈格爾和麗莎·明內(nèi)利。

By the end of his 20s, Halston had already designed the pillbox hat that Jackie Kennedy wore to her husband's presidential inauguration. By his early 40s, he had helped break France's global dominance of fashion with 1973's landmark Battle of Versailles Fashion Show.

在他20多歲的時候，霍爾斯頓已經(jīng)設(shè)計(jì)了杰奎琳·肯尼迪在她丈夫的總統(tǒng)就職典禮上所戴的圓禮帽。在他40歲出頭的時候，他幫助打破了法國在全球時尚界的主導(dǎo)地位。1973年，他舉辦了具有劃時代意義的凡爾賽宮之戰(zhàn)時裝秀。

In reality, he was from a working-class home in Des Moines, Iowa, and spent his youth in provincial midwestern cities before landing a job as a custom milliner at New York's Bergdorf Goodman department store. His work there culminated in Jackie Kennedy's aforementioned pillbox hat, a radically clean shape that inspired copies across the US.

實(shí)際上，他來自愛荷華州得梅因的一個工薪階層家庭，年輕時住在中西部的幾個省級城市，后來在紐約的波道夫古德曼百貨公司找到了一份定制女帽的工作。他在那里的作品以杰奎琳·肯尼迪前面提到的圓禮帽為高潮，這種極其干凈的造型激發(fā)了美國各地的仿制潮。

Halston's impact is clearly visible in the work of designers like Tom Ford, whose glamorous late-1990s womenswear bears his influence, according tothe Washington Post's fashion critic Robin Givhan. By making everyday outfits luxurious, he was also an pioneer of "athleisure," adds Mears.

《華盛頓郵報(bào)》的時尚評論家羅賓•吉夫漢表示，霍爾斯頓的影響力在湯姆•福特等設(shè)計(jì)師的作品中顯而易見。上世紀(jì)90年代末，湯姆•福特設(shè)計(jì)的迷人女裝受到了他的影響。米爾斯補(bǔ)充說，通過讓日常服裝變得奢華，他也是“運(yùn)動休閑風(fēng)”的先驅(qū)。