Whether to enjoy home cooking, get lost in winding alleys, or just escape the chaos of central Rome, visitors have always come here in search of the authentic Italy. Now in increasing numbers, the visitors are moving in, driving up housing prices and displacing many old time residents. Some people fear that recent developments have changed the neighborhood for the worse. Giancarlo Viso has been serving clients of this cafe for 35 years. His old customers are disappearing, and they are taking the spirit of the place along with them.
This bar is more than 70 years old. In the old days, people would buy milk here and carry it home in tin buckets. Women used to come down in their nightgowns to have breakfast. Today, it has become a modern bar like the rest.
But not everyone is so negative about the change. Giavan Amili has been selling newspapers onPiazza Santa Maria for the past 18 years. From his booth, he has witnessed the restoration of the church, the cleaning of the neighborhood, and a big increase in business.
I would say Trastevere has changed for the better. Before, it was a lot more unstable. There was crime, poverty and unruliness. Today, the type of community has changed. The neighborhood is safe, but it still keeps its characteristic charm.
Many people say it is its very charm that has led to Trastevere's transformation. The glory of Rome lies in its ability to retain layer upon layer of history. Even as the present creates anentirely new city, Trastevere's ancient ruins, medieval alleys, renaissance churches and baroque palaces are all part of that timeless process.