CNN時尚生活志：A Century in the Making 用百年釀造的芬芳——世紀極品白蘭地的誕生

28 A Century in the Making

28 用百年釀造的芬芳——世紀極品白蘭地的誕生

MONITA RAJPAL, ART OF LIFE

The cobwebs on these barrels give you an idea of just how long Rémy Martin spends on its Louis Treize cognac. It takes three generations for the cognac to make it from vine to bottle. Blending Louis Treize takes patience. The people that do it will never see the fruits of their labor. That's partly what makes the brand so sought-after and exclusive. Vincent Géré is the head of estates at Rémy Martin. We met up with him in London to learn more about the art of making and tasting the finest cognac.

《生活藝術(shù)》莫妮塔·拉吉波

從這些酒桶上的蜘蛛絲，可知人頭馬公司在他們的路易十三干邑白蘭地上面花了多長時間。從葡萄樹到酒瓶，這種酒總共要經(jīng)歷三代人才能完成。釀造路易十三需要耐心，從事這項工作的人永遠看不到自己的工作成果。這就是這個品牌深受歡迎并且獨一無二的原因之一。文森特·吉雷是人頭馬莊園的總監(jiān)，我們在倫敦和他見面，以求進一步了解高級干邑白蘭地的制作與品嘗藝術(shù)。

When one thinks of sipping cognac at the end of an evening or end of a fine meal, they think that's almost a luxury item. It's to be able to sip it, to enjoy it, to really feel that you're enveloped6 in luxury. Why do you think that is?

一般人想到在夜晚或者在吃完美昧的正餐之后啜飲一杯干邑白蘭地，都會認為這是一種奢華的享受。那種感覺就是吸飲一口，慢慢享受，真正感受到自己被包裹在奢華當中。你認為一般人為什么會有這樣的想法?

VINCENT GERE, HEAD OF ESTATES, REMY MARTIN

Well, luxury for me is really about rarity and about time, and about intensity. of emotion. With cognac you've got the epitome of those three things.

人頭馬莊園總監(jiān) 文森特·吉雷

對我來說，奢華的構(gòu)成要素其實是稀有性、時間，還有情感的強烈程度。干邑白蘭地正是這三者的縮影。

MONITA RAJPAL, ART OF LIFE

Describe for me the kind of person who enjoys cognac. Who is it for?

《生活藝術(shù)》莫妮塔·拉吉波

請你形容一下什么樣的人會喜歡干邑白蘭地。這種酒是為什么樣的人釀的?

VINCENT GERE, HEAD OF ESTATES, RéMY MARTlN

Happy few. joke aside, its royalty，it's politicians. It's epicureans. One of the first sommelier I saw speaking about Louis Treize used to tell me an anecdote. He used to say that in his bar, when someone is ordering a glass of Louis Treize, he's asking his sommelier to actually take the longest possible route in the bar to go to the tables, so everybody knows.

人頭馬莊園總監(jiān) 文森特·吉雷

幸運的少數(shù)。開玩笑啦。說真的，喜歡干邑白蘭地的人包括貴族、政治人物，還有享樂主義者。我遇到的第一個談?wù)撀芬资梢匕滋m地的酒侍，曾經(jīng)跟我說過一個故事。他說在他的酒吧里，如果有人點了一杯路易十氣，他就會繞最遠的路把酒送到桌上，好讓大家都看到。

MONITA RAJPAL, ART OF LIFE

Well, alright, you've tempted me and I want to try it. So let's try some.

《生活藝術(shù)》莫妮塔·拉吉波

好吧，你勾起了我的興趣，我要品嘗看看。就來曰:嘗一點吧。

VINCENT GERE, HEAD OF ESTATES, RéMY MARTIN

So, the moment of truth.

人頭馬莊園總監(jiān) 文森特·吉雷

揭開真相的時刻到了。

MONITA RAJPAL, ART OF LIFE

Yes, please. I've never had cognac before, so let's try. Now the glass is also important, isn't it?

《生活藝術(shù)》莫妮塔·拉吉波

是的，謝謝。我從來沒喝過干邑向蘭地，現(xiàn)在就來品嘗一下吧。玻璃杯也很重要，對不對。

VINCENT GERE, HEAD OF ESTATES, RéMY MARTIN

The glass is very important. Obviously, to really enjoy the I'assemblage of this complexity, of this age, please don't use a big balloon glass. It will give a chance, really, to all those aromas to express themselves, because they will come Up gently, one after the other to your nose, and each time you will smell the glass, or you will have a tiny sip, a new cognac will come to you.

人頭馬莊園總監(jiān) 文森特·吉雷

酒杯非常重要。要好好享受這種繁復(fù)的元素和被伏的時間結(jié)合而成的成果，請不要用大球狀杯。這樣會讓種種不同的香氣各向擁有表現(xiàn)自己的機會，因為這些香氣會慢慢飄出，——送進你的鼻子里你每嗅一次杯子，或者喝一小門，就會感受到一種全新的風(fēng)味。

It should be nearly sticking to the glass. And for the first nose, try not to dive in the glass too quickly. It's very tempting. But if you stay above the glass, that's where you are going to see the incredible lift, it's as if, yes, the sweet aromas are coming Up by themselves. It is quite delicate, it is very floral. It is just ticklish to the nose.

你應(yīng)該要幾乎把臉貼到杯子上。但是第一次闊的時候，盡量不要太快栽迸杯子里。很多人會忍不住這么做，可是你如果保峙在杯子上方，就能感受到那種不可思議的氣味熏蒸，甜美的香氣向己飄了上來。這種氣味很細致，帶有花香，會微微挑遠你的鼻子。

And now if you go right deep in the glass, you have another cognac all together. It's very fruity. So, try to smell again, because you have to condition yourself, because that's... you know that a lot of us, we do taste with the back of our nose. 50, have this tiny sip. Wet your lips, and try to just crush one drop on your teeth.

現(xiàn)在，你如果一頭栽進杯子里，又會聞到完全不同的氣味，感受到強烈的果香。所以，再聞一次看看，因為你要調(diào)整自己的習(xí)慣，因為……你知道有很多人都是用鼻子的后方欣賞味道。所以，小小報一門，了占濕嘴唇，盡量只留一滴在牙齒上。

And if you do this, very naturally it is going to coat the whole of your palate. Very gently.

如果你這么做，這一小滴酒就會自然包裹你的整個上頓。輕輕柔柔地。

MONITA RAJPAL, ART OF LIFE

It's very subtle.

《生活藝術(shù)》莫妮塔·拉吉波

很細膩的口感。

VINCENT GERE, HEAD OF ESTATES, REMY MARTIN

Yes. I'm afraid it's a little bit downhill from now on.

人頭馬莊園總監(jiān) 文森特·吉雷

是的。不過接下來大概就慢慢消散了。

MONITA RAJPAL, ART OF LIFE

Yeah, no kidding. Thank you very much.

《生活藝術(shù)》莫妮塔·拉吉波

真的耶。非常感謝你。

VINCENT GERE, HEAD OF ESTATES, REMY MARTIN

Pleasure.

人頭馬莊園總監(jiān) 文森特·吉雷

不客氣。

MONITA RAJPAL, ART OF LIFE

This has been a real pleasure.

《生活藝術(shù)》莫妮塔·拉吉波

這真的是令人享受的經(jīng)驗。

VINCENT GERE, HEAD OF ESTATES，REMY MARTlN

Santé.

人頭馬莊園總監(jiān) 文森特·吉雷

敬你，祝你健康。

MONITA RAJPAL, ART OF LIFE

Santé. Merci.

《生活藝術(shù)》莫妮塔·拉吉波

也敬你，謝謝。