國(guó)家地理:沒(méi)有垃圾的世界可能存在嗎(11)

The other 40 percent, the clothes no one wants, are recycled as wipe cloths or shredded for insulation or mattress stuffing. Some are incinerated. The recycled fraction increasingly includes cheaply made, worn-out items. Boer loses money on almost all of it. Fast fashion, he said, could help put him out of business.

剩下40%沒(méi)人要的衣服將回收制成抹布，或者粉碎后用于填充床墊的保溫層。有一些被焚燒。越來(lái)越多價(jià)廉質(zhì)劣的衣物流入這個(gè)回收類(lèi)別，其中幾乎所有貨品都讓博爾賠本。他說(shuō)，快消時(shí)尚可能讓他生意難以為繼。

There's one form of recycling he makes a modest profit on. For decades Boer has shipped wool sweaters and other loose knits to companies in Prato, Italy, that mechanically tease the wool apart, recapturing long fibers that can become good-as-new garments. Woven cotton or polyester can't be recycled that way; the fibers end up too short. Half a dozen start-ups are working on technology to chemically recycle these fibers. To spur its development, Boer thinks the European Union should require new clothes to contain, say, 20 percent recycled fibers.

有一種回收方式能讓他賺取薄利。數(shù)十年來(lái)，博爾將羊毛衫和其他松散織物運(yùn)往意大利普拉托的各家公司，它們用機(jī)器拆開(kāi)毛線(xiàn)，收集能夠重制成翻新衣物的長(zhǎng)纖維。棉線(xiàn)和聚酯纖維無(wú)法如此回收：拆解出來(lái)的纖維太短。數(shù)家創(chuàng)業(yè)公司正在研發(fā)新技術(shù)，用化學(xué)方式回收這類(lèi)纖維。博爾認(rèn)為，歐盟應(yīng)該要求所有新衣服包含20%左右的回收纖維，以鼓勵(lì)這項(xiàng)產(chǎn)業(yè)發(fā)展。

"In 10 years it will be there," Boer said. "It has to be there."

“十年內(nèi)就會(huì)落成，”他說(shuō)，“必須落成?！?/p>

At Ellen MacArthur I heard enthusiasm for a different business model, one that might promote circularity in many economic sectors -- a model based on renting rather than owning. Rent the Runway and other online clothes-rental companies make up less than a 10th of a percent of the global fashion market so far, but they're growing fast.

在艾倫·麥克阿瑟基金會(huì)，我聽(tīng)到了對(duì)另一種商業(yè)模式的熱忱，它有望在諸多經(jīng)濟(jì)領(lǐng)域中促進(jìn)資源循環(huán)。這是一種基于租賃而非持有的消費(fèi)模式。各家網(wǎng)上租衣公司目前只占全球時(shí)尚市場(chǎng)的不到0.1%，但正在迅速成長(zhǎng)。

In theory, renting is more sustainable: If many people share the same item, fewer clothes might be needed overall. In practice, that's not certain; customers might just add luxury rentals to existing wardrobes. Renting will certainly add to the packaging, shipping, and dry-cleaning of clothes. Writing in Elle recently, journalist Elizabeth Cline, author of two books on fast fashion, tried to sort out the pros and cons. "Wearing what's already in your closet is the most sustainable way to get dressed," she concluded.

理論上說(shuō)，租借更加環(huán)保：假如一件物品能由多人使用，則所需衣物總量就會(huì)減少。但在實(shí)踐中并不一定如此，顧客們可能只會(huì)在原有衣櫥基礎(chǔ)上附加奢侈品租借。出租也必將增加服裝所需的包裝、寄運(yùn)和干洗處理。著有兩本快消時(shí)尚專(zhuān)著的記者伊麗莎白·克萊因近期在《ELLE》雜志發(fā)表文章探討該模式的利弊兩面?！按┳约阂聶恢幸延械囊挛锸亲罹呖沙掷m(xù)性的著裝方式?！彼偨Y(jié)道。