英格蘭沒(méi)進(jìn)決賽，但是主帥的馬甲火了！如何把馬甲穿出時(shí)尚范了解一下

在昨晚的比賽中，英格蘭隊(duì)在加時(shí)賽遭克羅地亞隊(duì)逆轉(zhuǎn)，已無(wú)緣大力神杯。但在賽場(chǎng)之外，英格蘭隊(duì)主帥索斯蓋特卻成為本屆世界杯最有名的帶貨王，把馬甲襯衫穿出了時(shí)尚范兒。

Soccer Football - World Cup - Semi Final - Croatia v England - Luzhniki Stadium, Moscow, Russia - July 11, 2018 England manager Gareth Southgate looks dejected after the match REUTERS/Carl Recine

England soccer manager Gareth Southgate is launching a revival.

英格蘭隊(duì)主帥蓋雷斯•索斯蓋特帶動(dòng)了一波復(fù)興潮。

Not only has he rejuvenated an England side that had previously not reached a World Cup semi-final in 28 years, but he's also brought the waistcoat back from the dead.

他不僅率領(lǐng)已28年無(wú)緣世界杯半決賽的英格蘭隊(duì)成功打入四強(qiáng)，還帶火了已經(jīng)在時(shí)尚圈沉寂已久的馬甲。

British retailer Marks & Spencer (M&S) says its waistcoat sales have doubled since the World Cup began on June 14, and searches for the garment on its website are up over 100%.

英國(guó)瑪莎百貨稱，自從世界杯6月14日開賽以來(lái)，馬甲銷量已經(jīng)翻倍，官網(wǎng)上馬甲搜索量也已經(jīng)翻番。

Some customers even reported that M&S waistcoats had sold out in some sizes.

還有些顧客說(shuō)瑪莎百貨一些碼的馬甲已經(jīng)缺貨。

"Gareth's sideline style has meant our waistcoats are really scoring with our customers with sales doubling since the World Cup began," an M&S spokesperson said. "We've got enough different styles in stock for everyone to show their support for the boys."

瑪莎百貨一位發(fā)言人說(shuō)：“索思蓋特在球場(chǎng)邊的著裝帶火了馬甲，自世界杯開賽以來(lái)，馬甲銷量已經(jīng)翻倍。我們的馬甲款式足夠多，所有人都可以以此表達(dá)他們對(duì)英格蘭隊(duì)的支持。”

EBay has also reported a 25% increase in searches for waistcoats and tailoring retailer TM Lewin tweeted that sales were "going through the stadium roof."

易趣網(wǎng)上馬甲的搜索量也已經(jīng)增長(zhǎng)了25%，制衣公司TM Lewin也在其推特上表示，馬甲銷量已經(jīng)“直沖云霄”。

England's semi-final clash against Croatia has been dubbed "Waistcoat Wednesday" by leading blood cancer charity Bloodwise.

血癌大型慈善機(jī)構(gòu)“智慧血液”把英格蘭隊(duì)與克羅地亞隊(duì)的半決賽之戰(zhàn)稱為“馬甲星期三”。

"As the whole country is gripped by football fever, and with Gareth's waistcoat-wearing having elevated him to the level of footballing fashionista, we thought that urging people to wear waistcoats on Wednesday would be a way of getting behind the boys at the same as raising money for a good cause," said Gemma Peters, chief executive of Bloodwise.

該機(jī)構(gòu)董事長(zhǎng)吉瑪•彼得斯說(shuō)：“整個(gè)英國(guó)都在為足球瘋狂。索斯蓋特身穿馬甲的形象讓他成為綠茵場(chǎng)的時(shí)尚偶像。我們認(rèn)為鼓勵(lì)大家在周三穿馬甲既可以對(duì)英格蘭隊(duì)表示支持，還可以以此為慈善募捐。”

Soccer Football - World Cup - Semi Final - Croatia v England - Luzhniki Stadium, Moscow, Russia - July 11, 2018 England manager Gareth Southgate looks dejected after the match REUTERS/Carl Recine

Southgate is something of an unlikely fashionista, though. On his new role as a style icon, Southgate told the BBC's Gabby Logan: "As a centre-half with a face like I've got, then that's a very rare position to be in. I'm not David Beckham, so, we're in trouble Gabby!"

但索斯蓋特看起來(lái)不像是個(gè)時(shí)尚咖。在成為時(shí)尚偶像后，他告訴英國(guó)廣播公司的加比•洛根說(shuō)：“作為一個(gè)其貌不揚(yáng)的中衛(wèi)，成為時(shí)尚界新寵不太尋常。我不是大衛(wèi)•貝克漢姆，所以現(xiàn)在你看，我遇到麻煩了。”

So popular is the manager's sartorial look, though, that the craze has transcended English buyers.

索斯蓋特的馬甲著裝也讓英國(guó)之外的人們著迷。

"I saw him at England versus Colombia and I thought: 'He looks good,'" Ivan Novikov, a Moscow tax consultant, told The Telegraph. "I don't even know his name."

莫斯科一位稅務(wù)顧問(wèn)伊萬(wàn)•諾維科夫告訴《每日電訊報(bào)》說(shuō)：“英格蘭對(duì)陣哥倫比亞的比賽中我就注意到他了，我當(dāng)時(shí)就想，‘他看上去太帥了’。我連他的名字都不知道。”

Soccer Football - World Cup - Semi Final - Croatia v England - Luzhniki Stadium, Moscow, Russia - July 11, 2018 England manager Gareth Southgate consoles Dele Alli after the match REUTERS/Grigory Dukor TPX IMAGES OF THE DAY

如何把馬甲穿出時(shí)尚范?

怎樣才能把馬甲穿出英格蘭主帥的時(shí)尚范?商業(yè)內(nèi)幕網(wǎng)為此采訪了杰克•戴維森定制服裝店的制衣商。

1. 確保馬甲的長(zhǎng)度能蓋住襯衫。

"When wearing a waistcoat, the key things to look out for are making sure that it's long enough to cover your shirt entirely — with no gap between the waistcoat and trousers," Jack Stammers and Will Davison, the men behind the London tailors, said.

這家倫敦時(shí)裝店的老板杰克•斯塔莫斯和威爾•戴維森說(shuō)：“穿馬甲關(guān)鍵是要注意確保馬甲夠長(zhǎng)，能蓋住整個(gè)襯衫，這樣馬甲和褲子之間不會(huì)有襯衫露出來(lái)。”

Many fans have been caught out breaking this golden rule — here's a good example of how not to wear it:

很多馬甲粉的穿著方式都是不對(duì)的，下面就是個(gè)錯(cuò)誤的例子：

Not so chic. REUTERS / Henry Nicholls

2. 不要系腰帶

Davison and Stammers also say you shouldn't wear a belt if you're opting for a waistcoat as "this can add unneeded bulk to the waist with the extra layer and also break up the line of the suit."

戴維森和斯塔莫斯還說(shuō)，穿馬甲時(shí)不要系腰帶，因?yàn)?ldquo;這會(huì)讓腰部肥上一圈，根本沒(méi)必要，還會(huì)毀掉服裝的線條。”

3. 馬甲要合身，但不要太緊

The fit is also very important. Eagle-eyed viewers will notice that Southgate's vest is fitted without being tight, which Davison and Stammers say is key. "[It] can be a tricky balance. If having your suit made, request a tonal lining for the back to avoid looking like a snooker player or waiter."

合身也很重要。眼尖的觀眾會(huì)注意到，索斯蓋特的馬甲很合身，但又不緊，戴維森和斯塔莫斯都說(shuō)這很關(guān)鍵。“這個(gè)度不太好把握。如果你專門定制，就要求在背部加一條配色線，這樣就不會(huì)看起來(lái)像是斯諾克臺(tái)球選手或者服務(wù)生了。”

The tailors say prospective waistcoat-wearers should look to another former footballer Rio Ferdinand for inspiration, who's recently been extolled by GQ for his style.

他們還說(shuō)，想把馬甲穿出范兒的人還應(yīng)該向前球星里奧•費(fèi)迪南德取取經(jīng)，最近GQ雜志還稱贊了他的衣品。

4. 留一顆扣子

One piece of waistcoat etiquette that both Southgate and Ferdinand fail to observe, though, is leaving one button on the vest unfastened — either top or bottom. It's not clear when this rule was developed, but one theory suggests it was King Edward VII who popularised the style because he was too portly to do all the buttons up.

但索斯蓋特和費(fèi)迪南德都沒(méi)有做到的是，應(yīng)該留一顆扣子，最上面或者最下面的一顆都行。人們并不清楚這種穿衣風(fēng)格由何而來(lái)，但有一種說(shuō)法認(rèn)為，英國(guó)國(guó)王愛(ài)德華七世是這種穿法的普及者，因?yàn)樗郑挡簧纤械目圩印?br />