雞年主題奢侈大牌亮瞎眼

The official start of the Year of the Rooster in the Chinese Zodiac begins on January 28th, and the fashion industry has been paying homage in a big way.

2017年1月28日，中國(guó)將正式迎來(lái)農(nóng)歷雞年的新年。而時(shí)尚界已經(jīng)開始大規(guī)模向雞年致意。

Given it's the most lucrative time of year for designer brands to target Chinese consumers – one of the most significant forces in global luxury consumption - a surge in zodiac-themed items can be seen everywhere but, they’re facing immense criticism.

這是一年中時(shí)尚大牌瞄準(zhǔn)中國(guó)消費(fèi)者的最賺錢的時(shí)機(jī)，因此新出現(xiàn)的生肖主題商品隨處可見(jiàn)，但它們也面臨諸多批評(píng)之聲。中國(guó)消費(fèi)者是全球奢侈品消費(fèi)中一股最顯著的力量。

Cashing in on the demand for holiday gifts, these brands are thrusting cultural references upon wealthy Chinese shoppers. However, many of the country’s millennials consider them outdated.

這些品牌投資于節(jié)日禮物的市場(chǎng)需求，對(duì)富裕的中國(guó)購(gòu)物者強(qiáng)力推出各種文化產(chǎn)品。然而中國(guó)很多千禧一代認(rèn)為這些產(chǎn)品很過(guò)時(shí)。

Instead of overused elements like red, yellow, phoenix’s and the seasonal rooster; this new market are seeking more authentic and modern representations of Chinese culture. 這一新市場(chǎng)正追求對(duì)中國(guó)文化更真實(shí)、更現(xiàn)代的表達(dá)，而不是過(guò)度使用紅色、黃色、鳳凰圖案、以及應(yīng)季的公雞圖案。

Take Victoria Secret’s eponymous fashion show for instance which might we add, included a total of four Chinese models for the first time ever in its squad of heavenly Angels.

以維密時(shí)裝秀為例，最新一次的維密時(shí)裝秀首次請(qǐng)到四位中國(guó)模特?fù)?dān)任維密天使。

The lingerie brand decided to send dragon-decorated supermodels down the runway – think Adirana Lima’s yellow stiletto boots or Kendall Jenner carrying blue phoenix wings on her back – and it quickly became the subject of online criticism.

這家內(nèi)衣品牌決定把身穿龍形圖案服裝的模特派上T臺(tái)，龍形圖案出現(xiàn)在阿德瑞娜•利瑪?shù)狞S色細(xì)高跟靴子上，肯達(dá)爾•詹娜則背上了藍(lán)色的鳳凰翅膀。這很快招致網(wǎng)絡(luò)上的批評(píng)。

“Even the world’s most beautiful bodies are not going to save these rustic and passe Chinese-themed outfits,” wrote a Chinese web user on Sina Weibo, the country’s equivalent of Twitter.

一位中國(guó)網(wǎng)友在新浪微博上寫道：“即使是最美麗的模特也無(wú)法拯救這些土氣過(guò)時(shí)的中國(guó)風(fēng)服裝”。

From Dior’s rooster bracelet to Calvin Klein’s red and gold unmentionables, luxury retailers’ New Year-themed products are leaving Chinese consumers disgruntled.

從迪奧的公雞手鏈到CK的金紅色內(nèi)衣，奢侈品銷售商的新年主題產(chǎn)品令中國(guó)消費(fèi)者不滿。

Talking of MCM’s rooster-embroidered bag, one person commented, “red, gold, and zodiac signs are symbols of Chinese New Year, but why do they believe we want to carry a bag with a zodiac animal all year round?”

在談到MCM的公雞繡花手袋時(shí)，有人這樣評(píng)論說(shuō)：“紅色、金色和生肖圖案是中國(guó)新年的象征，但他們?yōu)槭裁从X(jué)得我們想一年都拎著一個(gè)帶有生肖圖案的包包”?

Other offerings include cosmetics giant Estee Lauder which has designed a golden rooster on its limited edition powder compact, while Dolce & Gabbana is offering up a five sequined Rooster bomber jacket for a mere £1450.

化妝品巨頭雅詩(shī)蘭黛推出限量版粉餅，盒子上設(shè)計(jì)了一個(gè)金色公雞的圖案。杜嘉班納推出一款短夾克，上面有五只有金屬片裝飾的公雞，售價(jià)僅為1450英鎊。

Sure, the Chinese market is becoming increasingly more sophisticated but, the ability for these brands to seamlessly and elegantly integrate authentic Chinese elements into their designs is another factor to consider.

當(dāng)然，中國(guó)市場(chǎng)正變得越來(lái)越復(fù)雜，但這些大牌完美優(yōu)雅地將真正的中國(guó)元素融入設(shè)計(jì)的能力是另外一個(gè)要考慮的因素。

For some, it just doesn’t add up and consumers are refusing to invest in products that aren’t consistent with the brands aesthetic. One prime example is Longchamp’s handbag which features a red and gold embroidered rooster. It’s off brand and out of taste.

對(duì)一些人來(lái)說(shuō)，這并不會(huì)加分，消費(fèi)者拒絕購(gòu)買與品牌審美風(fēng)格不同的產(chǎn)品。一個(gè)著名的例子是龍?bào)J的手袋，上面有只金紅色的繡花公雞。這和品牌風(fēng)格相去甚遠(yuǎn)，非常沒(méi)品。

The style of young Chinese fashionistas has evidently evolved and, while luxury retailers will continue to cash in on this special occasion, they can’t ignore the social media backlash that many of these products have faced.

年輕的中國(guó)時(shí)尚達(dá)人們的風(fēng)格顯然在不斷變化。盡管奢侈品經(jīng)銷商將繼續(xù)借機(jī)發(fā)財(cái)，他們?nèi)圆荒芎鲆暫芏嗌唐访鎸?duì)的社交媒體抨擊。