雙語對照 ● Walking Tours　徒步旅行

Walking Tours　徒步旅行

◎ Robert Louis Stevenson

It must not be imagined that a walking tour, as some would have us fancy, is merely a better or worse way of seeing the country. There are many ways of seeing landscape quite as good; and none more vivid, in spite of canting dilettantes[84], than from a railway train. But landscape on a walking tour is quite accessory. He who is indeed of the brotherhood does not voyage inquest of the picturesque, but of certain jolly humors of the hope and spirit with which the march begins at morning, and the peace and spiritual repletion of the evening’s rest. He cannot tell whether he puts his knapsack on, or takes it off, with more delight. The excitement of the departure[85]puts him in key for that of the arrival. Whatever he does is not only a reward in itself, but will be further rewarded in the sequel; and so pleasure leads on to pleasure in an endless chain. It is this that so few can understand; they will either be always lounging or always at five miles an hour; they do not play off the one against the other, prepare allay for the evening, and all evening for the next day. And, above all, it is here that your overwalker fails of comprehension. His heart rises against those who drink their curacaos in liqueur glasses, when he himself can swill it in a brown John. He will not believe that the flavor is more delicate in the smaller dose. He will not believe that to walk this unconscionable distance is merely to stupefy and brutalize himself, and come to his inn, at night, with a sort of frost on his five wits, and a starless night of darkness in his spirit. Not for him the mild luminous evening of the temperate walker! He has nothing left of man but a physical need for bed-time and a double nightcap; and even his pipe, if he be a smoker, will be savorless and disenchanted. It is the fate of such a one to take twice as much trouble as is needed to obtain happiness, and miss the happiness in the end; he is the man of the proverb, in short, who goes farther and fares worse.

無法想象一些人只是把徒步旅行看成是一種觀賞鄉(xiāng)村風景的還行或糟糕的方式。其實觀賞山水風景的方式很多，而且都還不錯，只是沒有一種比坐火車觀賞來得生動有趣——只有那些附庸風雅的人不贊同這個觀點。但是，徒步觀賞山水美景真的是一個不錯的選擇。一個真正懂得兄弟情懷的人乘船出游時，他所追求的并非是沿途秀麗的風光，而是一種歡愉之情——從清晨滿懷希望、精神抖擻地出航，到夜晚平安、充實地歸航。他說不出是背上行囊時更快樂，還是卸下行囊時更快樂。出航時的興奮預示了他歸航時的喜悅。無論他做了什么，都不僅僅是對其本身的獎賞，也將在接下來的日子里獲得更豐厚的獎賞。所以，快樂帶來快樂，源源不斷。但是，只有少數(shù)的人明白這一點。大多數(shù)的人們不是原地不動，就是頃刻數(shù)里。他們不懂得如何將這兩者折中，只知道晝夜不分地忙碌著。最重要的是，趕路人無法體會旅行帶來的樂趣。他只許自己舉杯暢飲，卻看不得別人小酌一杯。他不相信，小酌才能品出真正的酒香。他不會相信，拼命趕路只會讓自己變得呆板、冷酷。晚上回到旅館，只會感覺疲憊不堪、昏昏沉沉。夜晚對他來說，并不像悠閑的漫步者眼中那樣溫和醉人。他唯一的需求就是睡帽和上床睡覺。如果他是一個吸煙的人，甚至就連他的煙斗也會變得索然無味，沒有任何吸引力。這種人注定會在追求幸福的過程中事倍功半，而且，他最終還是和幸福擦肩而過了?？傊?，他就如同諺語里所說的那種人——走得越遠越糟糕。

Now, to be properly enjoyed, a walking tour should beg one upon alone. If you go in a company, or even in pairs, it is no longer a walking tour in anything but name; it is something else and more in the nature of a picnic. A walking tour should be gone upon alone, because freedom is of the essence; because you should be able to stop and go on, and follow this way or that, as the freak takes you; and because you must have your own pace, and neither trot alongside a champion walker, nor mince in time with a girl. And then you must be open to all impressions and let your thoughts take color from what you see. You should be as a pipe for any wind to play upon. “I cannot see the wit,” says Hazlitt, “of walking and talking at the same time. When I am in the country I wish to vegetate like the country,” which is the gist of all that can be said upon the matter. There should be no cackle of voices at your elbow, to jar on the meditative silence of the morning. And so long as a man is reasoning he cannot surrender himself to that fine intoxication[86]that comes of much motion in the open air, that begins in a sort of dazzle and sluggishness of the brain, and ends in a peace that passes comprehension.

現(xiàn)在，好好地享受旅行吧！徒步旅行者必須力求獨自前行。如果結伴而行抑或成雙成對，那就不再是徒步旅行了，只是徒有虛名罷了；它就更像是在大自然中舉行的一場野餐。徒步旅行者必須力求獨自前行，因為自由就是獨自徒步旅行的；因為你能隨時停下或繼續(xù)前進，隨心所欲地選擇這條路或那條路；因為你必須要有自己的步調，既不需要跟隨拼命趕路的人，也不需要在一個女孩身上浪費時間。然而，你必須敞開心扉接受所有的情感，讓你所見到的東西為思想添彩。你應該做一支隨風飄零的笛子。哈茲里特曾經(jīng)這樣說道：“我無法體會行走和談論同時進行的樂趣。當我身在鄉(xiāng)村時，我渴望過著簡單淳樸的鄉(xiāng)村生活。”這就是徒步旅行的真正涵義了。你身邊不該有類似咯咯叫的嘈雜聲，打破了清晨冥想時的寧靜。只要一個人無法停止思考，那他就無法全身心陶醉在戶外的美景中。陶醉始于意亂眼迷、思維停滯，并最終進入一種超凡的平和境界。

During the first day or so of any tour there are moments of bitterness, when the traveler feels more than coldly towards his knapsack, when he is half in a mind to throw it bodily over the hedge and, like Christian on a similar occasion, “give three leaps and go on singing”. And yet it soon acquires a property of easiness. It becomes magnetic; the spirit of the journey enters into it. And no sooner have you passed the straps over your shoulder than the lees of sleep are cleared from you, you pull yourself together with a shake, and fall at once into your stride. And surely, of all possible moods, this, in which a man takes the road, is the best. Of course, if he will keep thinking of his anxieties, if he will open the merchant Abudah’s chest and walk arm-in-arm with the hag—why, wherever he is, and whether he walks fast or slow, the chances are that he will not be happy. And so much the more shame to himself! There are perhaps thirty men setting forth at that same hour, and I would lay a large wager there is not another dull face among the thirty. It would be a fine thing to follow, in a coat of darkness, one after another of these wayfarers, some summer morning, for the first few miles upon the road. This one, who walks fast, with a keen look in his eyes, is all concentrated in his own mind; he is up at his loom, weaving and weaving, to set the landscape to words. This one peers about, as he goes, among the grasses; he waits by the canal to watch the dragonflies; he leans on the gate of the pasture, and cannot look enough upon the complacent kine. And here comes another, talking, laughing, and gesticulating to himself. His face changes from time to time, as indignation flashes from his eyes or anger clouds his forehead. He is composing articles, delivering orations, and conducting the most impassioned interviews, by the way. A little farther on, and it is as like as not he will begin to sing.

任何形式的旅行，第一天總會有些酸楚的瞬間。當旅行者厭倦了自己的行囊，甚至想要把它扔到籬笆外時，他就會像基督徒處于類似情況那樣，“跳三跳，接著唱”。不過，你很快就能獲得出游時的舒適感。它會變得十分有吸引力；出游時的那份精神也會與其融合在一起。于是，當你將行囊背在肩上時，你殘留的睡意瞬間消失不見，你將精神抖擻地大踏步開始自己的新旅行。當然，在所有心情中，選擇道路時的心情是最好的。當然，如果他繼續(xù)思考著自己的煩心事，如果他像阿布達的箱子那樣敞開著跟隨女巫同行，那么，無論他身在哪里，不論他是匆匆趕路還是悠閑漫步，他都不會快樂的。而且，這讓他的人生蒙羞。如果現(xiàn)在有30個人同時出發(fā)，我敢保證，在這30人當中，你再也看不到一張憂郁的臉。這是一件值得去做的事情。試想一下，一個夏日的清晨，這些徒步旅行者披著夜色，一個接一個地上路了。他們當中有個步調很快的人，他的眼中充滿渴望，全神貫注于自己的思緒，原來他正在自出機杼，斟字酌句，把山水美景寫成文字。有一個人一邊走一邊瞇著眼睛看著草叢；他在小河邊停下了，他想要看看飛舞的蜻蜓；他傾著身子靠在牧場的門邊，看不夠那怡然自得的老黃牛。另一個人則說著，笑著，沖著自己手舞足蹈。他的臉色隨著眼中閃現(xiàn)的怒火或是額頭上出現(xiàn)的陰云而不斷地變化著。他正在路邊構思文章，發(fā)表演說，進行最富激情的面談。他很有可能過一會就開始高歌一曲了。

And well for him, supposing him to be no great master in that art, if he stumbles across no stolid peasant at a corner; for on such an occasion, I scarcely know which is the more troubled, or whether it is worse to suffer the confusion of your troubadour[87], or the unfeigned alarm of your clown. A sedentary population, accustomed, besides, to the strange mechanical bearing of the common tramp, can in no wise explain to itself the gaiety of these passers-by. I knew one man who was arrested as a runaway lunatic, because although a full-grown person with a red beard, he skipped as he went like a child. And you would be astonished if I were to tell you all the grave and learned heads who have confessed to me that, when on walking tours, they sang—and sang very ill—and had a pair of red ears when, as described above, the inauspicious peasant plumped into their arms from round a corner.

對他而言，假使他并不擅長這門藝術，又碰巧在拐角處碰見一個感覺并不遲鈍的農民，我想不出還有什么是比這樣的情形來得糟糕，我不知道是這位年輕的民謠歌手更尷尬，還是那位農民更難受。還有一類人，他們久居室內，而且不喜歡去陌生的地方，所以這些人也無法體會旅行者的快樂。我認識一個人，他曾經(jīng)被當作瘋漢抓起來，只因為他看上去像個蓄著紅胡子的成年人，走路卻像小孩那樣蹦蹦跳跳。當我告訴你下面這些事時，你肯定會很吃驚，那就是：很多學識淵博的人向我坦白，他們徒步旅行時也會唱歌，而且唱得十分難聽，當他們遇到上面提到的情形——和一個倒霉的農民在拐角相遇時，他們也會羞愧難當。

美麗語錄

I am a slow walker, but I never walk backwards.

雖然我走得很慢，但是我從來不后退。

超多雙語閱讀，盡在聽力課堂