朝鮮“美人軍”的冬奧會(huì)魅力攻勢(shì)

Winter Olympics fashion has, largely, been a tale of two events: the opening and closing ceremonies, where national costume comes out to play; and figure skating, where the aesthetic swings and swoops from Vegas-on-ice to Vera Wang, with a touch of Broadway and Diaghilev thrown in. As of this week, however, a new factor was added to the mix: the North Korean cheerleading squad.

基本上，冬奧會(huì)的時(shí)尚部分只有兩個(gè)地方：展示國(guó)家隊(duì)隊(duì)服的開(kāi)幕式和閉幕式;還有花樣滑冰，它的美學(xué)趣味在拉斯維加斯冰秀到王薇薇(Vera Wang)、一點(diǎn)點(diǎn)百老匯和加吉列夫芭蕾舞團(tuán)之間不斷搖擺。不過(guò)，一個(gè)新的元素在本周加入了這個(gè)混合體：朝鮮拉拉隊(duì)。

Approximately 230 young women strong, the squad arrived for the Pyeongchang Games in matching red wool coats, buttoned at the waist, with black fur trim at the neck and wrists and matching black caps, high-heeled ankle boots and sheer hosiery. They toted matching red wheelies and handbags, and all grinned matching grins.

這個(gè)由大約230名年輕女子組成的拉拉隊(duì)抵達(dá)了平昌冬奧會(huì)，她們穿著紅色羊毛大衣，腰上別著扣子，黑色毛皮邊點(diǎn)綴頸部和手腕，戴著配套的黑帽、短靴和透明絲襪。她們拿著配套的紅色行李箱和手袋，臉上掛著配套的微笑。

Imagine a cross between Pan Am “stewardesses” of the 1960s, “Red Sparrow” and the Dallas Cowboys squad, and you’ll get the idea. In North Korea they are reportedly known as “the army of beauties.”

想像一下1960年代的泛美航空(Pan Am)“女乘務(wù)員”、“紅雀”和達(dá)拉斯牛仔隊(duì)的混合，你就懂了。據(jù)稱(chēng)，她們?cè)诔r被稱(chēng)為“美人軍”。

For a country whose image is defined largely by the figure of its leader, Kim Jong-un, with his severe military dress and strange trapezoidal hairstyle, the cheer squad provides a visual message of a different kind.

對(duì)于一個(gè)國(guó)家形象主要由最高領(lǐng)袖金正恩，以及他那嚴(yán)肅的軍裝和奇怪的梯形發(fā)型所定義的國(guó)家來(lái)說(shuō)，朝鮮拉拉隊(duì)發(fā)出了一種不同的視覺(jué)信息。

There to support the joint North and South Korean team, they also serve, at least theoretically, to normalize and humanize the regime — propaganda in fashionable person form.

她們是為了支持朝韓聯(lián)隊(duì)來(lái)到平昌，但至少在理論上也是為朝鮮政權(quán)的正?；腿诵曰繕?biāo)出力——時(shí)尚麗人形式的政治宣傳。

The cheer squad first appeared in 2002 during the Asian Games in Busan, and have also been at the 2003 Summer Universiade in Daegu and the 2005 Asian Athletics Championships in Incheon, but the Olympics will be their global coming-out moment.

這支拉拉隊(duì)于2002年的釜山亞運(yùn)會(huì)期間首次亮相，也曾在2003年的大邱夏季世界大學(xué)生運(yùn)動(dòng)會(huì)和2005年的仁川亞洲田徑錦標(biāo)賽上出現(xiàn)，但奧運(yùn)會(huì)將成為她們登上全球舞臺(tái)的時(shí)刻。

Chosen, according to reports from An Chan-Il, a defector who runs the World Institute for North Korea Studies, by strict criteria on height and family background — Ri Sol-ju, the wife of Kim Jong-un, was originally in the cheer squad — they have worn everything from traditional Korean garb to Nike baseball caps and T-shirts, and often use flags and fans in the routines they do from the stands.

據(jù)世界朝鮮問(wèn)題研究所(World Institute for North Korea Studies)所長(zhǎng)、脫北者安江日(An Chan II，音)的說(shuō)法，她們是依據(jù)身高、家庭背景方面的嚴(yán)格標(biāo)準(zhǔn)選拔出來(lái)的——金正恩的妻子李雪主最初也在這支拉拉隊(duì)里——她們既穿傳統(tǒng)朝鮮服裝，也穿耐克棒球帽和T恤衫，并經(jīng)常在看臺(tái)的常規(guī)表演中使用旗幟和扇子。

Nike! Just like you and me.

穿耐克!就跟你和我一樣。

In front of the millions who will watch the Olympics and who have a very specific stereotype of a hermit kingdom in mind, colored in shades of drab, the garb may provide a jolt of outreach. Clothes can do that. They are an access point everyone can read and relate to.

在數(shù)百萬(wàn)將觀(guān)看冬奧會(huì)的人頭腦中，對(duì)朝鮮已經(jīng)有了一個(gè)非常具體的刻板印象，即它是一個(gè)單調(diào)乏味的隱士王國(guó)，在這些人面前，她們的裝束可能會(huì)起到令人驚訝的外延效果。服裝是可以做到這一點(diǎn)的。它們是每個(gè)人都可以讀懂和產(chǎn)生聯(lián)系的入口。

After all, when Kim Jong-un appeared in a gray tailored suit during his New Year’s address instead of his usual army uniform, it caused ripples across the internet.

畢竟，當(dāng)金正恩在新年演講中穿著灰色西服而不是軍服時(shí)，就在網(wǎng)絡(luò)上帶來(lái)很大反響。

Though exactly how normal 230 young women wearing precisely matched clothing and acting in lock step really is, is up for debate. Even the athletes, marching into the arena in their team uniforms, express more sartorial individuality than the cheer squad.

不過(guò)230名年輕女性穿著完全相同的衣服、走著完全一致的步子到底有多正常，是一個(gè)仁者見(jiàn)仁，智者見(jiàn)智的問(wèn)題。即使運(yùn)動(dòng)員穿著隊(duì)服入場(chǎng)，也比拉拉隊(duì)表現(xiàn)出了更多的服裝個(gè)性。

So it’s possible that the squad’s image-ineering could backfire, could strike the world as yet another example of the way the authoritarian regime dictates every aspect of its citizens’ lives. But everything is relative. And compared to the perception of dress in the country, the cheer squad has a glow of color and style that is both unexpected and weirdly mesmerizing.

因此，這支拉拉隊(duì)的形象工程有可能會(huì)取得適得其反的效果，讓世界覺(jué)得，這是獨(dú)裁政權(quán)決定其公民生活方方面面的又一個(gè)例子。但所有事情都是相對(duì)的。與對(duì)朝鮮國(guó)內(nèi)服裝的印象相比，拉拉隊(duì)身上的色彩和風(fēng)格使人眼前一亮，既出乎意料又奇怪地讓人著迷。

Either way, given the global attention paid to the impeccably coordinated opening ceremony of the Beijing Olympics with its choreographed displays of harmony, there’s no doubt the cheer squad is going to get a lot of attention. Odds are they will be chronicled and photographed regularly throughout the Games, and may make most of the fashion news (at least until Ivanka Trump arrives).

不論如何，考慮到全球?qū)Ρ本W運(yùn)會(huì)上配合得無(wú)懈可擊的開(kāi)幕式，以及它展現(xiàn)出的經(jīng)過(guò)精心編排的和諧之感的關(guān)注，朝鮮拉拉隊(duì)毫無(wú)疑問(wèn)也將獲得大量關(guān)注。她們有可能會(huì)在賽事期間被寫(xiě)被拍，也可能會(huì)占據(jù)大量時(shí)尚新聞(至少是在伊萬(wàn)卡·特朗普[Ivanka Trump]到來(lái)之前)。

Indeed, it’s not hard to imagine a certain famous TV watcher also tuning in for the Games and being struck by the allure of having a national cheer squad. What better accompaniment to the military parade President Trump reportedly desires? Rah-rah.

的確，想像一下吧，某個(gè)著名的電視觀(guān)眾也在觀(guān)看奧運(yùn)比賽，并且為擁有一支國(guó)家拉拉隊(duì)的誘惑所擊中。還有什么更匹配據(jù)稱(chēng)特朗普總統(tǒng)所渴望的大閱兵呢?真棒!