新養(yǎng)生之道：像穴居人一樣吃喝拉撒

新養(yǎng)生之道：像穴居人一樣吃喝拉撒

Which is more primal, hard cider or a strawberry margarita?

什么才更原始，烈性蘋果酒還是草莓瑪格麗塔酒?

Would a self-respecting cave man check his iPhone after 8 p.m., as long as he was wearing amber goggles?

一個有自尊心的穴居人會在晚上8點戴著琥珀色護(hù)目鏡查看iPhone嗎?

What about that morning beauty regimen? Is coconut oil or castor oil more likely to restore that neo-Neanderthal glow to a woman’s cheek?

晨間美容又如何?新穴居人用椰子油還是蓖麻油來為女性的面頰增色?

To the uninitiated, the much talked about Paleo diet — a nutritional regimen centered around pasture-raised meat, eggs, fresh fruit and vegetables, and nuts, in the spirit of our cave-dwelling forebears — may seem like another low-carb fad, the South Beach diet dressed up in a mammoth hide. But the time has passed when it could be written off as a fringe movement of shaggy-haired Luddites with an outsize taste for wild boar meatloaf.

備受關(guān)注的舊石器飲食(Paleo diet)是一種飲食養(yǎng)生，借鑒我們穴居人老祖先的精神，食譜上主要是牧草飼喂的肉制品和禽蛋，此外還有新鮮水果、蔬菜和堅果。不了解它的人會覺得和南海岸飲食法，即另一種低卡路里飲食沒什么兩樣，無非是披上一層猛犸象的包裝。認(rèn)為它是一個蓬頭垢面、反技術(shù)進(jìn)步，同時又大啖野豬肉的邊緣運動的時代，過去了。

Lately, Paleo has charged toward the mainstream, not only as a hugely popular diet (it was most-searched diet of 2013, according to the Google Trends Zeitgeist list), but also as a cave-man-inspired lifestyle that has spawned a fast-growing industry.

最近，舊石器飲食開始邁向主流，不僅是作為一種非常流行的飲食法(根據(jù)谷歌時尚熱點列表，它是2013年被搜索次數(shù)最多的飲食法)，也開始成為一種受原始人啟發(fā)的生活方式，還帶來了一個快速增長的產(chǎn)業(yè)。

There are now glossy magazines on the Paleo lifestyle, conferences like Paleo f(x) that feature Paleo speakers and products, and vacation retreats like PrimalCon, billed as a five-day immersion into all things Paleo. There are Paleo books, action figures, beauty products, liquors, sleep masks, “barefoot” shoes and clothing, not to mention a glut of places that sell all manner of Paleo foods, including almond-flower macaroons, elk jerky and grainless granola bars.

現(xiàn)在，有若干種關(guān)于舊石器生活方式的精美雜志;有類似“舊石器f(x)”這樣的集會，會上有說舊石器時期語言的人和舊石器時期的物品;還有 PrimalCon這樣的度假地，提供五天的舊石器時期生活沉浸式體驗;有關(guān)于舊石器時期的書籍、人偶模型、美容制品、酒類飲料、睡眠眼罩、“大腳怪”鞋子和衣服;更有一大堆販賣按舊石器時期方式制作的食物，包括杏花馬卡龍、麋鹿肉干和無谷即食麥片棒。

And, of course, Paleo has its celebrity followers. Actors like Megan Fox, Jessica Biel and Matthew McConaughey have reportedly taken the plunge.

當(dāng)然，舊石器生活方式也少不了名人擁躉。有報道說，梅根·?？怂?Megan Fox)、杰西卡·貝爾(Jessica Biel)和馬修·麥康納(Matthew McConaughey)都深深投入其中。

“Ancestral health,” to use a term popular among Paleo followers, has gone mass. For them, Paleo is a way of life, a philosophical prism that colors everything from child rearing to sunscreen.

“祖先的健康原則”是舊石器生活方式擁躉們當(dāng)中流行的一句話，如今這種方式已經(jīng)走向大眾。對于他們來說，舊石器是一種生活方式，一種哲學(xué)光譜，從養(yǎng)育孩子到防曬霜——它可以涵蓋生活的方方面面。

“It’s like taking the red pill or the blue pill in ‘The Matrix’; once you take the red pill, there’s no going back,” said Karen Phelps, a freelance writer in Ashland, Ore., referring to her conversion to the diet a few years ago, when a successful weight-loss push ended up becoming a total-life commitment. “It’s a total rabbit hole,” she said. “You start thinking, ‘Wait a minute, if I can fix my diet from ancestral health principles, what else can I fix through ancestral health principles?’ The list is endless.”

“這有點像在《黑客帝國》(The Matrix)中選擇紅藥片還是藍(lán)藥片;一旦你選擇了紅藥片，就再也沒有回頭路了，”俄勒岡州阿什蘭德的自由撰稿人凱倫·菲爾普斯(Karen Phels)說，她在幾年前開始嘗試這種飲食法，不僅令她得以成功減肥，還變成了她的整個生活。“這就像兔子洞，”她說，“你開始思考，‘等一下，如果我可以按照祖先的健康原則去改善飲食，那么我還能按照祖先的健康原則去改善什么?’能改善的東西有很多。”

Certainly, trendy diets and quasi-religious zeal have long gone hand in hand, a point familiar to anyone who has ever endured a newcomer to, say, Atkins spinning out soliloquies on cheese omelets. Even so, such dieters tend to limit their enthusiasm to what’s on the plate. Who ever heard of an Atkins bedroom or an Atkins medicine cabinet?

當(dāng)然，流行的飲食法早就和類宗教狂熱密不可分，這么說吧，只要你見過阿特金斯低碳飲食法(Atkins)的新入門者對著奶酪煎蛋卷自言自語的情形就會明白的。盡管如此，這樣的飲食法實踐者傾向于把狂熱局限在餐桌上。誰聽說過阿特金斯低碳睡眠法或者阿特金斯低碳醫(yī)療箱呢?

But among the Paleo crowd, limiting one’s enthusiasm for Paleo to food is almost a rookie maneuver.

但是對于舊石器生活方式的擁躉們來說，把對舊石器時期的熱情僅僅局限在食品方面，只是初級者的做法。

“Most people come to the Paleo diet thinking, ‘Hey, I can lose some weight,’ ” said Cain Credicott, the editor and publisher of Paleo Magazine, which sells at the checkout counter at Barnes & Noble, next to Bon Appétit.

“大多數(shù)剛剛接觸舊石器飲食法的人都想，‘嘿，這能讓我減肥’，”《舊石器雜志》(Paleo Magazine)的編輯和出版人凱恩·克萊迪克特(Cain Credicott)說，這本雜志可以在巴恩斯與諾貝爾書店的收銀處買到，就放在《好胃口》(Bon Appétit)旁邊。

“Everybody recognizes now that if you eat a squeaky clean diet but are still going to bed at 1 a.m. after watching TV, waking up at 6 a.m. with an alarm clock and slathering yourself with sunscreen, it doesn’t matter how good your diet is, you’re not going to be healthy,” Mr. Credicott said.

“現(xiàn)在所有人都意識到，就算你的飲食無可挑剔，但假如你仍然是看完電視凌晨一點上床，又在早晨6點被鬧鐘喚醒，全身涂滿防曬霜，那么就算吃得再好也還是無法獲得健康，”克萊迪克特說。

The basic theory of the so-called cave-man diet (which, at this point, you would virtually have to live in a cave to be unaware of) is that the modern diet, with its reliance on grains, starches, dairy and processed sugar, is not what the human body evolved to thrive on, and has contributed to widespread “diseases of civilization” like diabetes and heart disease.

所謂的“穴居人飲食法”(到了今天，假如你還不知道“穴居人飲食法”，那你沒準(zhǔn)真的住在洞穴里)，它的基本理論是：現(xiàn)代人的飲食依賴谷類、淀粉、牛奶和加工糖類，它們并不是人類身體進(jìn)化過程中所需要的食品，而且造成了廣泛傳播的“文明病”，比如糖尿病和心臟病等。

That is why leaders of the movement like Loren Cordain and Robb Wolf advocate a “wild” diet that falls roughly in line with that of those Paleolithic forager ancestors who had not yet learned to cultivate and eat grain, much less pry the lid off a Pringles can.

所以羅恩·科丹(Loren Cordain)和羅布·伍爾夫(Robb Wolf)等舊石器飲食運動的倡導(dǎo)者鼓吹“野性”的飲食，它主要依照我們舊石器時代的祖先而設(shè)計——他們需要四處覓食，還有沒學(xué)會種植莊稼和食用谷物，更別說吃品客薯片了。

Paleo is not without its critics. The science has been endlessly debated: Some nutritionists counter that verboten foods like grains, dairy and beans contain valuable nutrients, such as calcium, vitamins B and D, antioxidants and fiber. Elizabeth Kolbert, in a recent New Yorker road test of the diet, also pointed out that a meat-heavy diet has dire environmental implications. Still, proselytes often find that being Paleo quickly becomes a round-the-clock duty.

舊石器飲食不乏批評者?？茖W(xué)界無休無止地討論：有些營養(yǎng)學(xué)家反駁說，谷物、牛奶和豆類這些被舊石器飲食嚴(yán)格禁止的食品中包含有益的營養(yǎng)成分，諸如鈣質(zhì)、維生素B、維生素D，抗氧化物和纖維。伊麗莎白·科爾伯特(Elizabeth Kolbert)最近在《紐約客》雜志對這種飲食法進(jìn)行的實際檢測中也指出，偏重肉食的飲食法對環(huán)境有極壞的影響。但皈依者們通常會發(fā)現(xiàn)保持舊石器生活方式很快就成了他們?nèi)旌虻穆氊?zé)。

That was the experience of Michelle Tam, a former pharmacist in Palo Alto, Calif., who has adopted a primal sleep regimen.

米歇爾·塔姆(Michelle Tam)的經(jīng)歷就是如此，她原本是加利福尼亞州帕羅阿爾托的藥劑師，目前在嘗試原始人睡眠養(yǎng)生法。

It all started four years ago, when Ms. Tam, now 40, tried the Paleo diet to combat sluggishness and a stubborn muffin-top. But it didn’t end when she shed the extra pounds, as she sought to reorder the rest of her life along those ancestral principles. She quit her hospital job and transformed herself into something of a Martha Stewart of Paleo. Her recipe blog, Nom Nom Paleo, draws more than 100,000 page views daily. And she has a best-selling cookbook, a cooking app and action figure (though, oddly, it’s made of vinyl, not stone).

塔姆女士現(xiàn)年40歲，她從四年前開始嘗試舊石器飲食法來對抗自己的惰性，以及對瑪芬甜點的頑固喜好。但一切并未隨她減重幾磅而結(jié)束，她希望按照祖先的方式來重新安排自己的余生。她辭去了醫(yī)院的工作，把自己重塑為舊石器時代的瑪莎·斯圖爾特(Martha Stewart)。她的菜譜博客“Nom Nom Paleo”每天有10萬人次訪問。她的烹飪書成了暢銷書，她還有一個烹飪app，以及人偶模型(奇怪的是，它不是用石頭，而是用樹脂做成的)。

Ms. Tam also found herself altering her sleep to become more Paleo. As Mark Sisson put it in his seminal 2009 book, “The Primal Blueprint,” “our ancestors’ activity and sleep patterns were shaped by sunrise and sunset.” In the primal mind, the modern sleep ritual, interrupted by iPads and Jimmy Fallon, seems as unhealthy as a dinner of Fiddle Faddle with a Mountain Dew chaser.

為了更像舊石器時代的人，塔姆改變了睡眠方式。正如馬克·希森(Mark Sisson)在2009年的暢銷書《原始藍(lán)圖》(The Primal Blueprint)中所寫，“‘我們的祖先’日出而作，日落而息”?，F(xiàn)代人的睡眠不時被iPad和吉米·法倫(Jimmy Fallon)的深夜秀打斷，在原始人心目中這就像是把甜食和軟飲當(dāng)晚飯一樣不健康。

That’s why Ms. Tam, a confessed television addict, decided to cut out all electronic devices after 8 p.m. If she has to check her iPhone, she wears amber goggles to block the blue-spectrum light that she believes interferes with her circadian rhythms. Next, she turned her bedroom into the equivalent of a Lascaux cave, removing all clocks (her two young sons serve as her morning alarm, she said) and installing blackout window inserts.

所以承認(rèn)自己迷戀電視的塔姆決定晚八點一過就關(guān)掉所有電子設(shè)備。如果不得不查看手機(jī)，她會帶上琥珀鏡片護(hù)目鏡屏蔽藍(lán)光，她認(rèn)為這種藍(lán)光會干擾她的生物鐘。此外，她把臥室布置得和原始巖洞沒兩樣，拿走了所有鐘表(她說，由兩個小兒子來充當(dāng)她的鬧鐘)，還裝上了遮光窗板。

The move paid dividends. “I used to envy how my young two boys would fall asleep almost immediately after their heads hit the pillow,” Ms. Tam said. “At dawn, they’d bound out of bed, eager to tell us about the previous night’s dreams. Now, I sleep like them.”

她的做法有了回報。“我以前羨慕我的兩個年幼的兒子頭一沾枕頭就能睡著，”塔姆說，“一到清晨，他們就從床上跳起來，等不及告訴我們前一天晚上做了什么夢?，F(xiàn)在我也能和他們一樣了。”

She is not the only beneficiary. As Bloomberg Businessweek reported last fall, Indow Windows, the Portland, Ore.-based manufacturer of her window inserts, said traffic to its site tripled after Ms. Nam tweeted that she was “the happiest zombie on the planet” thanks to the company’s product.

她并不是唯一的受益者?！杜聿┥虡I(yè)周刊》(Bloomberg Businessweek)去年秋天的報道說，她使用的那種窗板是俄勒岡州波特蘭的Indow Windows公司生產(chǎn)的。塔姆女士在Twitter上說：用了該公司的產(chǎn)品后，自己就成了“地球上最快樂的僵尸”。該公司聲稱，自那以后，公司網(wǎng)站的訪問量增加了三倍。

But the lifestyle does not end when you roll out of bed. For many, the quest to rid one’s daily regimen of “poisonous things,” to use Mr. Sisson’s phrase, includes the morning beauty routine. Vita Pedrazzi, a former fashion manager at Harrods in London who now lives in the Canary Islands, said she used to be the sort of beauty obsessive who would slap on makeup to take out the trash, in part because of her sheepishness over her acne. But when the primal path inspired her to rid her bathroom of any product containing creepy-sounding chemicals, she adopted a zero-tolerance policy to any store-bought beauty product or cleanser — even soap.

但是從床上爬起來，穴居人的生活方式還沒結(jié)束。用希森的話說，還要除掉日常生活中“有毒害的東西”，比如早晨的美容工序。維塔·派德拉奇(Vita Pedrazzi)曾是倫敦哈羅德百貨分管時裝的經(jīng)理，如今住在開曼群島，她說，她曾經(jīng)是美容狂人，就算出去倒垃圾也要化妝，部分是由于對自己的粉刺感到害羞。但原始人的生活方式鼓勵她把洗手間里所有含有令人毛骨悚然的化學(xué)成分的制品都扔掉，如今她對任何商店里販賣的美容用品和清潔都采取零容忍態(tài)度——連肥皂也不例外。

As she proudly related on her blog, Vita Lives Free, Ms. Pedrazzi, 30, now makes her own beauty products, including a “no-poo” shampoo method (baking soda and apple cider vinegar, with a few drops of jojoba oil for the tips as a leave-in conditioner), body scrub made from olive oil and brown sugar, and toothpaste made with coconut oil and baking soda, with activated charcoal tablets for whitening. Although houseguests are shocked to find not so much as a canister of Ajax in her house — her horrified father-in-law recently raced out to the drugstore to buy toilet cleaner, instead of her white vinegar solution — she feels transformed.

她的博客名叫“維塔自由生活”，她在上面驕傲地寫道：30歲的派德拉奇女士，如今親手制作自己的美容用品，包括“不使用香波”的洗頭方式(用小蘇打和蘋果醋清洗，再在發(fā)梢涂上幾滴荷荷巴油作為護(hù)發(fā)素)、用橄欖油和紅糖做成的身體磨砂膏，還有用椰子油和蘇打做成的牙膏，并用小塊活性炭為牙齒增白。盡管客人們震驚地發(fā)現(xiàn)，她的家里連Ajax清潔用品也沒有(她的公公看到她用白醋清洗廁所簡直嚇壞了，趕快跑到雜貨店去買來清潔劑)，但她看上去宛如脫胎換骨。

“The new natural beauty routine totally transformed my skin, and I finally defeated my acne,” she said. “I was finally free.”

“新的自然美容法徹底改變了我的皮膚，我也最終戰(zhàn)勝了粉刺，”她說。“我終于自由了。”

As the Paleo day continues, many find a way to keep at least a toe in the primal world at the office. A writer for Paleo Lifestyle Magazine recommends keeping a jar of virgin coconut oil in a desk drawer. (“If I end up getting an afternoon sugar craving, or just feel like I’m in need of a quick snack, I just take out my spoon and eat a glob.”)

很多人還找到辦法，在辦公室里也能至少保持一點原始世界的樣子。一位《舊石器生活方式雜志》(Paleo Lifestyle Magazine)的撰稿人建議，在辦公桌抽屜里放一罐初榨椰子油——“如果我下午想吃甜食或者想吃快餐，就吃一匙椰子油。”

That may be one reason so many are looking to blow off some primal steam at the gym after work.

所以下班之后，許多人希望能在健身房里也來點原始精神。

The preferred form of exercise for the Paleo tribe is CrossFit, a high-intensity workout that stresses Cybex-equipment-free motions like lunges and burpees, and the high-protein, low-carb diet of neo-cave men. As John Durant, a founder of Paleo NYC and Barefoot Runners NYC, put it in his 2013 book, “The Paleo Manifesto: Ancient Wisdom for Lifelong Health,” “other animals don’t ‘exercise’ so much as they either play or just do what is required to survive. Birds fly. Fish swim.”

交叉健身法(CrossFit)是備受“原始人”們青睞的健身方式，這是一種高強度的健身，強調(diào)弓步和波比(burpees)等不需要器械的動作，還要輔以新穴居人們推崇的高蛋白、低卡路里飲食。約翰·杜蘭特(John Drant)是“紐約舊石器與紐約大腳怪跑步者”的創(chuàng)始人，他在2013年出版了《舊石器宣言：終生健康的古老智慧》(The Paleo Manifesto: Ancient Wisdom for Lifelong Health)一書，書中說，“其他動物不必‘鍛煉’，因為它們不是在玩耍，就是在做生存必須的事情。鳥兒飛翔，魚兒游泳。”

In that spirit, humans are just supposed to do what humans naturally do — or did, 10,000 years ago — to stay fit: Climb. Run around. Hoist things. And never for unnaturally long stretches.

也就是說，為了保持健康，人類也應(yīng)該做人類生來自然而然就要做的事——或者說，一萬年前自然而然要做的事——攀爬、奔跑、搬東西。并且不做不自然的長時間鍛煉。

“Evolutionary fitness” die-hards can also partake in back-to-nature workout retreats like MoveNat started by a French exercise guru named Erwan Le Corre, where participants crawl up hillsides on all fours, play catch with rocks and balance on logs over creeks.

“進(jìn)化的健康”的鐵桿擁躉們還參加回歸自然的健身法，比如一位名叫埃爾文·勒·科赫(Erwan Le Corre)的法國導(dǎo)師創(chuàng)立的MoveNat健身，參加者們要手腳并用地爬山，用石頭玩接球游戲，在小溪上架設(shè)圓木，練習(xí)平衡身體。

For those who spend their day rearing children, the primal impulse has made major inroads into parenting, too. Websites like The Primal Parent extol corn-syrup-free trick-or-treating, baby slings for “attachment parenting” and placenta-eating for new mothers.

還有那些白天要照顧孩子們的人，原始的沖動也闖進(jìn)了養(yǎng)育兒童的領(lǐng)域。諸如“原始人父母”之類網(wǎng)站倡導(dǎo)不要給孩子吃玉米糖漿，實行“親密育兒法”，把嬰兒懸掛起來，還有讓產(chǎn)婦吃胎盤等做法。

Unstructured play, in particular, has become a cherished concept among Paleo-minded parents like Ms. Phelps, the Oregon devotee, who argued that “play is the method by which all mammals learn.”

信奉舊石器方法的父母們尤其喜愛隨意游戲的概念，比如俄勒岡的菲爾普斯女士，她認(rèn)為“游戲是一切哺乳類動物學(xué)習(xí)的方式”。

Primal parents are the polar opposite of the hyper-achievement-oriented “Tiger Mom” model. Instead of overscheduling her 5-year-old daughter with cello lessons and science fairs, Ms. Phelps prefers to spend hours with her after school playing in a muddy creek near their house. “She loves bugs,” Ms. Phelps said. “She loves dirt. I think she’s going to be an entomologist.”

原始人做父母的方式和如今致力于讓孩子取得成就的“虎媽”模式截然相反。菲爾普斯沒有給五歲的女兒安排大堆提琴課和科學(xué)活動，而是在她放學(xué)后和她一起去附近泥濘的小溪玩耍。“她喜歡蟲子，”菲爾普斯說，“她喜歡泥土，我覺得她可以當(dāng)個昆蟲學(xué)家。”

Mud. Rocks. Olive oil showers. From the outside, it may be easy to conclude that the Paleo lifestyle is all about hair shirts and self-denial. But Paleos, too, know how to rage after the workday is done, even though liquor, logically speaking, should be off limits. (It’s not as if hunter-gatherers were slugging back highballs). Dr. Cordain’s 85/15 rule of compliance allows for wiggle room, after all.

泥巴、巖石、橄欖油浴。從外表看來，你可能會覺得舊石器生活方式意味著滿身長毛和自我克制。但信奉舊石器生活方式的人也知道下班后該怎樣瘋狂一下，盡管從邏輯上說，烈酒本應(yīng)當(dāng)是被禁止的(狩獵-采集者似乎不會痛飲烈性威士忌)。但科丹博士的85/15原則(羅恩·科丹提出的一種規(guī)則，生活中遵循舊石器原則的飲食與不遵循舊石器原則的飲食應(yīng)大致保持在85%對15%的比例——譯注)提供了彈性空間。

For those looking to raise a glass, anything grain-forward, like beer, is typically out. But Paleos tend to look the other way on vodka (particularly potato vodka, which is free from all associations with gluten) and 100 percent agave tequila (hey, it’s cactus).

對于那些喜歡喝酒的人來說，啤酒等谷物釀造的酒類是絕對禁止的。但舊石器生活方式的信奉者們樂于對伏特加另眼相看(特別是土豆釀制的伏特加，它不含谷蛋白)，以及100%龍舌蘭酒(嘿，它可是用仙人掌做的)。