牛仔褲的可持續(xù)性越來越強

牛仔褲的可持續(xù)性越來越強

Last year the Ellen MacArthur Foundation released a set of guidelines called "Jeans Redesign." Written for denim manufacturers, it lays out suggestions for making the world's most popular pants more sustainable. These guidelines include:

去年，艾倫·麥克阿瑟基金會發(fā)布了一套名為“牛仔褲再設(shè)計”的指導(dǎo)方針。這本書是為牛仔制造商寫的，它列出了讓世界上最受歡迎的褲子更可持續(xù)發(fā)展的建議。這些指導(dǎo)方針包括:

· Designing so that a pair of jeans can withstand at least 30 washes (some critics say this sets the bar far too low)

牛仔褲至少耐30次洗滌的設(shè)計標(biāo)準(zhǔn)(有些批評人士說，這設(shè)定的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)太低了)

· The garment includes clear product care information on labels

衣服的標(biāo)簽上有明確的產(chǎn)品護理信息

· Contains at least 98 percent cellulose fibers made from regenerative, organic or transitional farming methods

含有至少98%的纖維素纖維，由再生的、有機的或過渡的耕作方法制成

· Does not use hazardous chemicals, conventional electroplating, stone finishing, sandblasting, or potassium permanganate in finishing

沒有使用危險化學(xué)品，常規(guī)電鍍，石材拋光，噴砂，或高錳酸鉀拋光

NelliSyr/Getty Images

When Treehugger first reported on these guidelines in 2019, they were brand new and had not yet been applied practically. But over the past year, the companies that pledged initial support have been working hard to turn them into reality. There are nearly 70 participants in total, and now this fall several companies have launched jeans for sale that adhere to the guidelines, proving that this can work.

當(dāng)“環(huán)保主義者”在2019年首次報道這些指導(dǎo)方針時，它們是全新的，尚未得到實際應(yīng)用。但在過去一年中，承諾提供初步支持的公司一直在努力將其變成現(xiàn)實。總共有近70個參與者，今年秋天，幾家公司已經(jīng)推出了符合指導(dǎo)方針的牛仔褲，證明這是可行的。

A five-minute documentary on YouTube outlines the process to date, and how the above-mentioned brands have approached their own jean redesigns. They share a collective sense of frustration with the fashion industry's current "take, make, waste" approach – "Take from the earth, make a product, and waste it" – and a strong sense of obligation to reverse it.

YouTube上一段五分鐘的紀(jì)錄片概述了到目前為止的設(shè)計過程，以及上述品牌是如何進行牛仔褲重新設(shè)計的。他們對時尚行業(yè)目前的“獲取、制造、浪費”的做法——“從地球上獲取，制造產(chǎn)品，然后浪費”——都有一種共同的挫敗感，也有強烈的義務(wù)去逆轉(zhuǎn)這種做法。

As Kelly Slater, founder of Outerknown says , "You can build things in a great way with a good cause and a good intention, but at the end of the day, if it ends up in landfill, then there is a problem." He's right, which is why each of the participating brands has a program to receive used items at the end of their life, to recycle and repurpose into new denim.

就像Outerknown的創(chuàng)始人凱利·斯萊特說的那樣，“你可以懷著一個良好的動機和良好的意愿以一種偉大的方式建造東西，但歸根結(jié)底，如果它最終被扔進了垃圾填埋場，那就有問題了。”他是對的，這就是為什么每個參與的品牌都有一個項目，在它們壽命結(jié)束時接收使用過的物品，并將其回收再利用，制成新的牛仔布。

At the risk of sounding overly negative, I do find these individualized return schemes to be somewhat impractical. While I understand the positive intent behind them, is it realistic to expect people to send back single items of clothing to separate brands for recycling? Usually, wardrobe clean-outs happen in a fit of passion (at least they do in my house) and the last thing I want to do is sort through everything to determine whether a company I supported years previous has a special recycling program. Sometimes the labels are so worn that I can't even read the original source.

冒著聽起來過于消極的風(fēng)險，我確實發(fā)現(xiàn)這些個性化的回報計劃有些不切實際。雖然我理解它們背后的積極意圖，但指望人們把一件衣服單獨寄回各個品牌進行回收，現(xiàn)實嗎?通常，衣柜清理是在一時沖動之下發(fā)生的(至少在我家里是這樣的)，而我最不想做的事情就是把所有的東西整理一番，以確定我?guī)啄昵百Y助的一家公司是否有特殊的回收計劃。有時標(biāo)簽太舊了，我甚至無法閱讀原始資料。

What's needed is a more comprehensive, streamlined approach to garment recycling, where all items eligible for recycling can be sent and redistributed back to their original manufacturers. Otherwise, it may prove too inconvenient for individual customers to follow through. What this would actually look like, I don't know, but perhaps facilities could be set up according to the textile type, e.g. denim, cotton, wool, etc.

現(xiàn)在需要的是一種更全面、更精簡的服裝回收方式，所有符合回收條件的物品都可以被送回原廠，重新分配給原廠。否則，對個人客戶來說，跟進可能會很不方便。我不知道這到底會是什么樣子，但也許可以根據(jù)紡織品類型來設(shè)置設(shè)施，比如牛仔布、棉花、羊毛等。

Furthermore, some brands will be waiting for a very long time to get the minimum quantity they need to experiment with proper recycling. I encountered this when researching Finnish raincoat company Reima. They said, "We’re currently planning the first recycling pilot with selected project partners, which can then be carried out when enough jackets are returned to us." But that could take years!

此外，一些品牌將等待很長時間，以獲得他們所需的最低數(shù)量，以試驗適當(dāng)?shù)幕厥?。我在研究芬蘭雨衣公司Reima時就遇到了這個問題。他們說:“我們目前正計劃與選定的項目合作伙伴進行第一次回收試點，待回收的夾克足夠多時，我們就可以開始回收了。”但這可能需要數(shù)年時間!