為什么改變我們?nèi)菝驳膲毫奈慈绱酥?/strong>
We have long tried to tweak the features nature dealt us, whether with magic creams, gadgets or exercise. But today, when approximately two billion images are uploaded every day to social media -- nearly 100 million of which are estimated to be selfies, according to Helfand -- the pressure to appear beautiful has never been higher.
長久以來,我們都在試圖改變大自然賦予我們的容貌,無論是使用神奇的面霜、小工具還是鍛煉。但如今,每天大約有20億張照片被上傳到社交媒體上,據(jù)海爾芬說,其中估計有1億張照片是自拍照,讓自己看起來漂亮的壓力從未像現(xiàn)在這樣大。
"We're so quick to judge and measure, and having cryptic ways of comparing ourselves to each other is unfortunately on the rise," Hefland said. "I think particularly for young people, the traffic and use of your face as a form of currency to gain likes and popularity struck me as really not where civilization needed to be going."
海爾芬說:“我們判斷和衡量的速度非??欤蒙衩氐姆绞絹肀容^自己和別人的情況正在增加。”我認(rèn)為,尤其是對年輕人來說,把你的臉作為一種貨幣的形式做交換來獲得喜歡和人氣,這讓我感到非常震驚,因為這并不是文明發(fā)展的方向。”
As Helfand notes in the book, the selfie has powered a global beauty industry valued at $532 billion, driven by our desire to share images on social media -- "the world's creepiest popularity contest" as Helfand puts it.
正如海爾芬在書中指出的那樣,自拍推動了全球美容業(yè)的發(fā)展,其價值達到了5320億美元,這是由于人們渴望在社交媒體上分享照片——用海爾芬的話說,這是“世界上最令人毛骨悚然的人氣競賽”。
A proliferation of apps that can morph our features in seemingly unlimited ways has fueled our desire to experiment.
越來越多的應(yīng)用程序似乎可以無限地改變我們的面貌,這促使了我們嘗試的欲望。
There are playful ones that transform us into koalas or zombies, or blend our faces with our favorite celebrities; and apps that airbrush skin, alter eyebrows, noses, lips, and even change our perceived gender or race.
有些好玩的應(yīng)用程序會把我們變成考拉或僵尸,或者把我們的臉和我們最喜歡的名人混在一起;還有一些應(yīng)用可以涂抹皮膚,改變眉毛、鼻子、嘴唇,甚至改變我們感知到的性別或種族。
Cosmetic procedures are also booming, with some thanks to the selfie: In 2017 there was a 55% increase in nose jobs according to the American Academy of Plastic Surgeons. "The uptick in people wanting nose jobs was very much a function of people saying they didn't like the way their noses looked in selfies," Helfand said.
整容手術(shù)也在蓬勃發(fā)展,這在一定程度上要歸功于自拍:根據(jù)美國整形外科醫(yī)生學(xué)會的數(shù)據(jù),2017年鼻子整形手術(shù)增加了55%。“想做鼻子整形手術(shù)的人增多很大程度上是因為人們不喜歡自己的鼻子在自拍中的樣子,”海爾芬說。
While it may seem as though our increasingly visual culture is pushing us ever closer to conformity, Helfand sees areas of positive change, too. For generations we have failed to protect and preserve non-Western images, leading to a dearth of diversity in surviving archives.
雖然越來越多的視覺文化似乎在推動我們更接近一致性,但海爾芬也看到了一些積極的變化。幾代人以來,我們未能保護和保存非西方面貌,導(dǎo)致現(xiàn)存檔案缺乏多樣性。
Today, with 3.5 billion smartphone users in the world, we now have easy access to a kaleidoscope of faces online.
今天,全世界有35億智能手機用戶,我們可以很容易地在網(wǎng)上看到千變?nèi)f化的面孔。
But has this increased representation led to more inclusive beauty standards? Hefland isn't so sure. "I wish I could say yes," she said.
但是,這種增加的代表性是否導(dǎo)致了審美標(biāo)準(zhǔn)更具包容性呢? 海爾芬不那么肯定。“我希望我能說是,”她說。
"Of course there are many more outlets for showing different faces, different bodies... Beauty standards take a much longer time to change."
“當(dāng)然有更多的渠道來展示不同的面孔,不同的身體。。。審美標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的改變需要更長的時間。”
You're looking at humanity when you look at faces. It isn't about the one person who is as pretty as Kim Kardashian West, it's about connecting to a much deeper humanity. That gives me hope.
當(dāng)你看臉的時候,其實你看到的是人性。這不是一個像金·卡戴珊·韋斯特一樣漂亮的人,而是與更深層次的人性的聯(lián)系。這給了我希望。
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