備受爭議的“便當史”

所屬教程:英語漫讀

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2018年01月18日

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日本的便當盒由來已久，在經(jīng)濟動蕩時期也曾備受爭議，然而作為日本飲食文化中不可或缺的一員，它逐漸從簡單的食盒上升為身份地位的標志，如今則成為了卡哇伊文化的重要象征。制作便當看似容易，實則需要十年磨一劍的用心和技藝，這也使得便當本身從日常食物變成了令人稱奇的藝術(shù)品。

It's not another middle class DIY project. The bento box is a staple of Japanese culinary history.

The history of bento is far deeper than Pokémon cafés and Pinspiration. The Japanese lunch container evolved from utility to status symbol to kawaii over the past 15 centuries. In fact, during times of economic uncertainty owning a bento box was downright controversial.

In the 5th century, Japan's farmers, hunters, and warriors packed their lunches in sacks or boxes and brought them to the fields. The design is derived from a farmer's seed box, and usually features multiple compartments for different dishes, such as rice, vegetables, and fish.

From there, bento spread across countries?—?China, Korea, the Philippines, and more. The word “bento” was actually derived from the Southern Song Dynasty slang term biàndāng, which means “convenient.” Each culture adopted its own dishes for the box, but the idea of a varied, balanced lunch remained constant. Bento became a favorite for cultural gatherings and social events, such as festivals, theater, and religious holidays. Boxes themselves could be made of lacquered wood or basket material. When the aluminum bento became popular during Japan's Taishō period beginning in 1912, bento suddenly went from lunch to luxury.

After World War I, Japan grappled with economic inequality. While its newfound hegemony in Asia grew Japan's industry, farmers and more traditional laborers contended with unstable crops. The wealth gap trickled down to Japan's children. Wealthy parents sent their kids to school with shiny bento lunches, neatly packed with nutritious fare; poor families could no longer afford the once-simple bento.

“My mother was older than the other kids' mothers and she filled my lunch box with tiny, traditional porcelain dishes and cups. The other kids had modern lunch boxes with jelly sandwiches and wieners cut to look like bunnies,” writes Gaku Homma in The Folk Art of Japanese Country Cooking. His mother was relieved when the school lunch program began.

Initiated in the late 19th Century, the Ministry of Education recommended nutritious meals for all schoolchildren. The school lunch later became standard in 1954, during World War II reconstruction. Homma remembers those lunches typically contained a cup of milk, koppepan (a loaf of bread), a pat of butter, rice, and a bowl of soup. Each kid brought a large cloth napkin to eat on. (The napkins also became status symbols, just as bento had, stitched on new sewing machines with tulip or butterfly designs.)

Bento's popularity resurged in the 1980s along with TV dinners and other “convenience” dishes. By this time, the US and other Western nations had already been introduced to bento's charm. Japanese-American sugar plantation workers were the first to bring the bento lunch to the US.

In the 1990s, character bentos (kyaraben) were born and are still incredibly popular today, with fantastic, edible creations that are as delightful to Instagram as they are delicious to eat. Besides Pinterest, parenting magazines and back-to-school blogs the world over have featured bento recipes, ideas for shaping rice balls into baby pandas for kids' lunches.

In fact, the bento box has merged with a core element of some Japanese art, which prizes not just a work's outcome but the process itself, which should be intentional and precise, a craft honed over years of study. The philosophy manifests in everything from calligraphy to umami to plastic food.

It's not uncommon for some mothers to spend up to 45 minutes per child's lunch, according to Christopher D. Salyers, author of Face Food: The Visual Creativity of Japanese Bento Boxes. Again the bento meal has become a marker for social status, with the most popular children unboxing the most elaborate bento.

In Japan, bento is served virtually everywhere, from Sailor Moon cafésto train-station food carts. And the original intention?—?a quick, portable, nutritious lunch?—?still holds strong.

Vocabulary

1. controversial: 引起爭論的;bento box: 便當，便當盒。

2. staple: 必需品，常備物;culinary: 烹飪的。

3. Pokémon café: 精靈寶可夢主題咖啡館，Pokémon是日本最有名的游戲、漫畫和動畫之一，多譯作《精靈寶可夢》、《口袋妖怪》、《寵物小精靈》、《神奇寶貝》等;Pinspiration: 一家DIY手工制作坊，其靈感源于創(chuàng)意展示、圖片分享平臺Pinterest，Pinterest采用的是瀑布流的形式展示圖片，瀏覽者無需翻頁。

4. 在過去的150年中，日本的食盒從實用上升為地位象征，乃至如今的卡哇伊文化。kawaii: 日本可愛文化，日語可愛的發(fā)音就是kawaisa，中文常音譯為卡哇伊或卡瓦伊，自1970年代以來，“可愛”已經(jīng)成為日本文化的重要元素，日本人把它運用在幾乎所有的生活領(lǐng)域。

5. downright: 徹頭徹尾地，完全地。

6. warrior: 武士;sack: (裝食品等用的)厚紙袋;field: 工作的領(lǐng)域，對于warriors來說指戰(zhàn)場(= battlefield)。

7. compartment: 格，分隔間。

8. slang: 俚語。

9. 每種文化的食盒都有自己特定的菜式，但始終奉行一個理念，即食材豐富和營養(yǎng)均衡。constant: 始終如一的。

10. lacquered: 噴漆的。

11. aluminum: 鋁制的;Taishō period: 日本大正天皇時期，約為1912至1926年。

12. grapple with: 盡力解決。

13. hegemony: 霸權(quán)，領(lǐng)導權(quán);contend with: 對付，與……斗爭;crop: 收成。

14. trickle down: 逐漸影響，緩慢影響。

15. fare: 飯菜，飲食。