從大董烤鴨到懷石料理，紐約吹來亞洲美食風(fēng)

Many of New York’s most intriguing new Asian restaurants in recent years have been imports — spinoffs of established places in Japan and China, often with a distinct innovation or specialty. This season’s newcomers follow suit.

美國(guó)近年新出現(xiàn)的很多最吸引人的亞洲餐廳都是舶來品——源自日本和中國(guó)的著名品牌，常常有獨(dú)特的創(chuàng)新之處或鮮明的特色。本季的新來者也是如此。

At Wokuni, the first American outpost for Tokyo Ichiban Foods, which runs 50 restaurants in Japan, bluefin tuna and king yellowtail will arrive by air from the company’s own aquaculture farm in Japan. Those fish and others will be prepared in traditional fashion — sushi, sashimi, tempura or grilled — and sold at a retail counter.

Wokuni餐廳是東京一番食品株式會(huì)社(Tokyo Ichiban Foods)的首個(gè)美國(guó)前哨。東京一番在日本經(jīng)營(yíng)著50家餐廳，還有自己的水產(chǎn)養(yǎng)殖場(chǎng)，它將把那里的藍(lán)鰭金槍魚和黃尾鰤空運(yùn)至Wokuni。這些魚以及其他一些食材會(huì)被人以傳統(tǒng)方式烹制——壽司、生魚片、天婦羅或燒烤——而后在零售柜臺(tái)出售。

Ramen has become commonplace in New York, but, at Tonchin New York in Midtown Manhattan, a Tokyo-based restaurant group will shine the spotlight on Tokyo-style ramen: broth seasoned with soy sauce. The curly noodles are made in-house. Tonchin will also serve teppanyaki dishes, seared on vintage-style iron griddles, and fried chicken.

拉面已經(jīng)成為紐約的常見食物，但在曼哈頓中城的屯京拉面紐約店(Tonchin New York)，一個(gè)總部位于東京的餐飲集團(tuán)會(huì)把聚光燈打到東京拉面上：其湯汁以醬油調(diào)味。卷曲的面條是店內(nèi)自制的。屯京還會(huì)供應(yīng)在復(fù)古風(fēng)格的鐵烤盤上制做的鐵板燒，以及炸雞。

Toru Okuda, who earned many Michelin stars in Tokyo and runs a restaurant in Paris, has secured a tiny niche in New York, where he will join the recent parade of chefs serving finely wrought kaiseki dinners. His Chelsea restaurant, Okuda, will offer two seatings each night at a counter with just seven seats. A private room holds another six.

在東京獲得過很多顆米其林星，并在巴黎經(jīng)營(yíng)著一家餐廳的奧田透(Toru Okuda)，在紐約專攻一個(gè)微小的細(xì)分市場(chǎng)。他會(huì)加入近來的一大串廚師的行列，供應(yīng)精心烹制的懷石料理。他在切爾西的餐廳奧田(Okuda)，僅有七個(gè)吧臺(tái)座位，而且每晚只接受兩臺(tái)顧客。此外，一個(gè)包廂里另有六個(gè)座位。

But there will be no shortage of tables at DaDong New York, a vast addition to Midtown by way of Beijing, Shanghai and Chengdu, China, with about 300 seats inside and nearly 200 on outdoor terraces on two floors. Here the pièce de résistance is Peking duck, cooked in special ovens to produce skin with a glassy crispness and sheen. The menu promises to deliver “the artistic conception of Chinese cuisine,” in beautifully rendered preparations by the chef, Dong Zhenxiang, better known as DaDong, and his executive chef, Andy Xu.

但在大董紐約店(DaDong New York)，不會(huì)出現(xiàn)桌子不夠用的情況。在中國(guó)北京、上海和成都都有生意的大董，又在曼哈頓中城開了一個(gè)巨大的分店，室內(nèi)有大約300個(gè)座位，兩層樓的戶外露臺(tái)上還有將近200個(gè)座位。這里的招牌菜是在特殊的烤爐里烹制的北京烤鴨，鴨皮酥脆，泛著光澤。店家在菜單中承諾，以人稱大董的主廚董振祥及其行政主廚安迪·許(Andy Xu)精心打造的菜品，展示“中國(guó)美食的意境”。

Other distinctive imports are on the horizon. Zauo, a multistory restaurant from Tokyo where customers can reel in their own fish from pools in the dining room, is set to open early next year at 152 West 24th Street. Marugame Udon, which features noodles that are kneaded, cut and cooked to order and has nearly 1,000 locations in Japan and elsewhere, is about to open in Los Angeles and has plans to expand, with New York in its sights.

其他一些獨(dú)具魅力的外國(guó)餐廳也將落戶紐約。來自東京的多層餐廳釣船茶屋(Zauo)計(jì)劃于明年初在西24街152號(hào)開業(yè)，食客可以親自從餐廳內(nèi)的池子里撈魚。丸龜制面(Marugame Udo)以經(jīng)過揉、切、煮等工序制成的面條為特色，在日本及世界各地有將近1000家店面，即將把分號(hào)開到洛杉磯。有意繼續(xù)擴(kuò)張的它，把目光瞄準(zhǔn)了紐約。

DaDong New York 3 Bryant Park (courtyard between 41st and 42nd Streets), October.

大董紐約店 布萊恩特公園(Bryant Park)3號(hào)(41街和42街之間的庭院)，10月。

Okuda 458 West 17th Street (Tenth Avenue), November. 奧田 西17街458號(hào)(第十大道)，11月。

Tonchin New York 13 West 36th Street (Fifth Avenue), September. 屯京拉面紐約店 西36街13號(hào)(第五大道)，9月。

Wokuni 325 Lexington Avenue (39th Street), September. Wokuni 萊辛頓大道(Lexington Avenue)325號(hào)(39街)，9月。