家有大廚 在家自制美味披薩

Some people insist on pizza drenched in tomato sauce, heaped with cured meats and oozingcheese. Others crave minimalist pies topped with nothing but garlic, olive oil and rosemary, orthinly sliced tomatoes and fresh mozzarella. One way to please everyone at the table is tocustom-make pizza at home: Prepare a selection of toppings and take orders.

有些人酷愛浸滿番茄醬、堆滿熏肉和淌著奶酪的披薩。有人則喜歡上面只有大蒜、橄欖油和迷迭香，或者只放薄薄的西紅柿切片和鮮馬蘇里拉奶酪的極簡主義披薩。在餐桌上讓所有人都滿意的一種方法是在家自制：多準備幾種配料，按客人的需求制作。

For me, though, a pizza ultimately succeeds or fails on the quality of its crust. The kind offlour you choose makes a big difference. In the recipe at right, I opt for half whole-wheatflour, half all-purpose or bread flour. The whole wheat makes for a flavorful crust, and providesall the health benefits associated with eating whole grains -- though a crust made solely withthis kind of flour would be tough and dry. All-purpose flour has a higher protein content, andbread flour an even higher one; adding either to the mix makes a smoother dough and alighter, more tender crust. You can also make this recipe using entirely all-purpose or breadflour, or a combo of the two. Experiment until you achieve the texture and taste you crave.

不過對我來說，一個披薩的成敗在于餅皮的質量。選擇的面粉種類會起到重要作用。在本文的菜譜中，我選用的是一半全麥面粉，一半通用面粉或面包粉。全麥面粉會讓做出來的餅皮很香，而且全麥谷物非常健康――不過全部用這種面粉做出來的餅皮會又硬又干。通用面粉的蛋白質含量比較高，面包粉蛋白質含量更高;添加這兩種面粉中的任何一種都會讓面團更細潤，做出來的餅皮更輕盈更柔軟。還可以全部用通用面粉或面包粉制作，也可以二者混合。不斷地嘗試，直到達到你想要的質感和味道為止。

The part many novice pizzaiolos find daunting is handling the pizza dough. All too often, thecircle springs back like a rubber band and becomes impossible to roll out long before itreaches the diameter called for in the recipe. I recall becoming similarly frustrated myself --and jettisoning the recalcitrant dough in favor of English muffin halves -- when first trying tomake pizza. Little did I realize, all that stiff dough needed was a short time-out in therefrigerator. Kneading and rolling develop the gluten in the flour and cause the crust to recoilrather than enlarge; chilling relaxes the tightly wound gluten. A five-to-10-minute rest resultsin compliant dough that stretches effortlessly to its requisite size.

令許多披薩制作新手卻步的部分是處理披薩面團。面團老是會像橡皮筋一樣縮回去，沒辦法扯開，達到菜譜中所需要的直徑。我記得自己第一次嘗試做披薩時也曾這樣沮喪過――最后我放棄了頑固的面團，做成了英式松餅的樣子。我沒有意識到，那硬邦邦的面團所需要的只是在冰箱里擱置片刻。揉捏會讓面粉產(chǎn)生面筋，導致餅皮回彈而不是延展;冷卻會讓結構緊密的面筋松弛。五到10分鐘的冷卻會讓面團輕而易舉地延展到所需要的大小。

THE INGREDIENTS

原料

1 1/3 cups lukewarm water

1/3杯溫水

2 cups whole-wheat flour

2杯全麥面粉

2 teaspoons honey

2茶匙蜂蜜

2 teaspoons fine sea salt

2茶匙精海鹽

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus 2 teaspoons to grease bowl

2湯匙橄欖油，外加2茶匙橄欖油用于涂碗

1 envelope active dry yeast

1袋活性干酵母

2 cups bread or all-purpose flour, plus additional for rolling

2杯面包粉或通用面粉，另加少許用于揉面

THE STEPS

制作步驟

1. Add flours, honey, yeast and salt to the bowl of a food processor or electric mixer andprocess to combine. Add water and 2 tablespoons oil and continue to process until doughforms a ball. If dough is sticky, add more flour, 1 tablespoon at a time. If dough is too dry, addwater, 1 tablespoon at a time.

第一步 在食物處理器或電動攪拌機的攪拌碗中加入面粉、蜂蜜、酵母和鹽，然后攪拌。加入水和兩湯匙油，繼續(xù)攪拌，直到面團成球狀。如果面團比較黏，再加面粉，一次加一湯匙。如果面團太干就加水，一次加一湯匙。

2. Scrape the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead until you have a smooth, elasticball, about 5 minutes. (Kneading can also be done using an electric mixer with the bread hookin place.)

第二步 將面團拿出，放到撒有少許面粉的臺面上，揉捏面團，直到面團成為光滑有彈性的圓球，大約需要揉捏五分鐘。(還可以裝上面團鉤用電動攪拌器來揉面。)

3. Form dough into a smooth ball and place in a large bowl greased with the remaining 2teaspoons olive oil. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and set aside until dough doubles in size,about 1 hour. Cut risen dough in half. Knead each half briefly and then shape into a ball. Placethe two balls on a lightly floured surface and cover loosely with a clean kitchen towel or plasticwrap. Let rest 1 hour at room temperature or in the refrigerator up to 24 hours. Ifrefrigerated, let dough come to room temperature before continuing.

第三步 鮮膜，靜置片刻，直到面團脹大一倍，大約需要一小時。將發(fā)起來的面團對半切，分別簡單揉一揉，然后捏成球狀。將兩個面團放在撒有面粉的臺面上，用干 的廚房紙巾或保鮮膜蓋上。室溫放置一小時，或者冰箱里放置最長24小時。若放在冰箱，等面團溫度恢復到室溫后再繼續(xù)下一步。

4. Use a rolling pin to roll out and your hands to stretch each ball into a circle 12-14 inches indiameter. If dough becomes too elastic, place it in the refrigerator for about 10 minutes torelax before continuing.

將面團揉成光滑的圓球，在一個大碗里涂上剩下的兩茶匙橄欖油，把面團放在碗里，蓋上保

Pizza Margherita

第四步 用搟面杖將面團搟平，用手將兩個面團拉成直徑12到14英寸的圓餅。如果面團彈性太大，將其在冰箱放置約10分鐘后再繼續(xù)處理。

Total Time: 20-25 minutes Makes: one 12-14-inch pizza

瑪格麗塔披薩(Pizza Margherita) 用時總計20到25分鐘，成品為12至14英寸的披薩

Preheat oven to 500 degrees and place rack as low as possible in oven. Lightly oil a 14-16-inchpizza pan or very large baking sheet and lay uncooked crust on top, rolling in edges to form arim if desired. // In a 10-inch skillet, heat 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil over medium-highheat, add 2 large cloves garlic, minced, and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add 1 ½ cups cannedwhole peeled tomatoes, crushing them as they go into the pan, then packed ¼ cup torn basilleaves. Boil, stirring frequently, until a thick sauce forms, 5-7 minutes. // Spread a layer ofsauce over rolled-out crust, top with packed ¼ cup torn basil leaves and 4 ounces freshmozzarella, thinly sliced. (You may have leftover sauce.) Drizzle with 3 tablespoons extra-virginolive oil. Sprinkle with ½ teaspoon oregano and season with salt and freshly ground blackpepper. If you like, top with 3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan and/or red pepper flakes totaste. // Bake 10 minutes. Use a pizza peel or a large spatula and an oven mitt to transferpizza from pan directly onto oven rack. Bake 2 minutes more, or until cheese is melted andcrust is golden and done to your liking.

將烤箱預熱到500華氏度(260攝氏度)，將烤架放在烤箱最底層。將一個14至16英寸的披薩盤或一個大號烤盤涂上少許油，將生餅皮放在盤子上，如果喜歡的話可以把邊緣卷起來做褶邊。// 10英寸的平底鍋中倒入一湯匙特級初榨橄欖油，中火加熱，加入兩大瓣蒜切成的蒜末，炒制一分鐘。加入一杯半罐裝去皮整番茄，在鍋中壓碎，然后加入1/4杯撕碎的羅勒葉。煮開，不停地攪拌，直到變成濃濃的番茄醬，需要五至七分鐘。//在攤好的餅皮上鋪上一層番茄醬，上面撒上1/4杯撕碎的羅勒葉和四盎司鮮馬蘇里拉奶酪薄片。(番茄醬可能用不完。)淋入三湯匙特級初榨橄欖油。撒上半茶匙牛至葉，加鹽和現(xiàn)磨黑胡椒調(diào)味。如果喜歡的話，可以按照口味撒上三湯匙現(xiàn)磨的帕爾瑪干酪和/或紅辣椒片。//烤制10分鐘。用披薩鏟或大鍋鏟和防熱手套將披薩從烤盤轉移到烤架上，再烘烤兩分鐘，或者根據(jù)自己喜好烤至奶酪融化，餅皮呈金黃色。

Variations

其他口味

1. Onion, Garlic and Rosemary: Combine 2 large red onions sliced into very thin rings, 4 verythinly sliced garlic cloves, ½ cup olive oil, ¼ teaspoon salt, ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes and 3tablespoons finely minced fresh rosemary leaves, and let marinate at least 1 hour. Top pizzaand bake.

1. 洋蔥、大蒜和迷迭香披薩：兩大顆紅洋蔥切成薄薄的圈，四顆大蒜切成薄片，將洋蔥圈、蒜片、半杯橄欖油、1/4茶匙鹽、半茶匙紅辣椒片和三湯匙新鮮迷迭香葉碎末混合在一起，腌制至少一小時。鋪在披薩上，放入烤箱烤制。

2. Vegetarian: Brush dough with olive oil or pesto, then top with slightly overlapping thin slicesof eggplant, onion, tomato, mushrooms and mozzarella. Brush lightly with more oil or pesto.Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Bake.

2. 素披薩：將面團刷上橄欖油或香蒜醬，上面鋪上切成薄片的茄子、洋蔥、西紅柿、蘑菇和馬蘇里拉奶酪。再刷上少許橄欖油或香蒜醬。加鹽和現(xiàn)磨黑胡椒調(diào)味，放入烤箱烤制。

3. Marinara: Brush dough lightly with tomato sauce, then sprinkle with rinsed and dried capers,halved and pitted black olives, and chopped anchovies. Season with salt and freshly groundblack pepper. Bake.

3. 瑪利那拉披薩(Marinara)：將面團刷上少許番茄醬，然后撒上漂洗干 的干酸豆、對半切去核的黑橄欖，還有剁碎的?魚。加鹽和現(xiàn)磨黑胡椒調(diào)味，放入烤箱烤制。

4. Quattro Stagioni: Brush dough lightly with tomato sauce. Top with strips of prosciutto, slicedmushrooms tossed in olive oil, sliced marinated artichokes and halved and pitted black olives.Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Bake.

4. 四季披薩(Quattro Stagioni)：將面團刷上少許番茄醬。鋪上意大利熏火腿條、拌了橄欖油的蘑菇片、腌洋薊片、和對半切去核的黑橄欖。加鹽和現(xiàn)磨黑胡椒調(diào)味，放入烤箱烤制。

5. Mixed Peppers and Onions: Lightly sauté 4 bell peppers, sliced-mixed colors if possible-alongwith 2 sliced onions and 2 cloves sliced garlic in 3 tablespoons olive oil. Season with salt andfreshly ground black pepper. Stir in mixed chopped fresh herbs (parsley, basil, oregano, thymeand/or chives) if desired. Spread over pizza dough. Bake. When hot from the oven, garnishwith freshly grated Parmesan.

5. 辣椒洋蔥雜燴披薩：四個燈籠椒切片，如果可能的話用不同顏色，兩只洋蔥和兩顆大蒜切片，放入三湯匙橄欖油中煎制片刻。加鹽和現(xiàn)磨黑胡椒調(diào)味。如果喜歡的話可以加入切碎的新鮮香草(歐芹、羅勒、牛至、百里香和/或韭菜)。煎好鋪在面團上，放入烤箱烤制。從烤箱出爐時，趁熱撒上現(xiàn)磨的帕爾馬干酪。

6. Fresh Sausage and Peppers: Follow instructions for Mixed Peppers and Onions, and dot with¼ pound sweet or hot Italian sausage, crumbled, before baking.

6. 鮮香腸和辣椒披薩：按照辣椒洋蔥雜燴披薩的步驟制作，烤制前鋪上1/4磅甜味或辣味意大利香腸碎塊。

7. Shellfish and Scallions: Cut 6 scallions into 1-inch lengths and sauté in olive oil 1 minute. Add¾ pound mixed shellfish-shelled shrimp, sliced scallops, clams and mussels steamed open andremoved from shells. Stir in 1-2 cloves chopped garlic, season with salt and freshly groundblack pepper, and remove from heat. Brush dough with olive oil and add a layer of choppedfresh tomatoes. Top with shellfish mixture and bake. Garnish with chopped fresh basil orparsley.

7. 海鮮青蔥披薩：將六棵青蔥切成一英寸長的小段，在橄欖油中煎制一分鐘。加入3/4磅各類海鮮――去殼的蝦、切碎的扇貝、蛤蜊和蒸熟并去殼的貽貝。放入一到二顆大蒜的蒜末，加鹽和現(xiàn)磨黑胡椒調(diào)味，關火。將面團刷上橄欖油，鋪上一層剁碎的新鮮番茄。鋪上調(diào)好味的海鮮，放入烤箱烤制。最后用剁碎的新鮮羅勒或歐芹點綴。

8. Mushrooms, Pancetta and Garlic: Cut 5 ounces pancetta into ¼-inch lardons and cook overmedium heat until soft. Transfer pancetta to paper towels to drain. Add 3 tablespoons olive oilto pan and sauté ¾ pounds sliced mixed mushrooms with 2 cloves sliced garlic, chopped thymeand chopped parsley. Add cooked pancetta and top pizza. Bake. When done, garnish withgrated Parmesan or Pecorino.

8. 蘑菇、意式培根(Pancetta)、大蒜披薩：將五盎司的意式培根切成1/4英寸大小的肉丁，中火烹制直至松軟。將培根轉移到紙巾上控油。平底鍋中加入三湯匙橄欖油，加入3/4磅切片的各類蘑菇、兩顆切片的大蒜、剁碎的百里香和歐芹。加入烹制好的培根，鋪在面團上。放入烤箱烤制，烤好后撒上磨好的帕爾瑪干酪或佩克里諾干酪點綴。