歐美時尚達人新潮流：買舊衣服穿

06 歐美時尚達人新潮流：買舊衣服穿

買舊衣服穿，在過去是大忌。有自尊心的時尚擁躉都不會坦承自己買過別人穿過的二手衣服。但如今早已今非昔比，現(xiàn)今追求的是八成新，只過了幾個時裝季的二手裝往往以很優(yōu)惠的價格就能淘到手。

狂熱的買家如今搖身一變成了精明的賣家，他們借助快速發(fā)展的代銷網(wǎng)站便捷處理自己的累贅東西。在過去，他們的處理辦法不是捐贈就是通過實體店轉賣，既麻煩又費時。而規(guī)模空前的eBay在線拍賣市場曾是其唯一選擇。

The RealReal創(chuàng)始人兼CEO朱麗·溫賴特（Julie Wainwright）注意到了市場存在的巨大缺口。運營五年來主要面對美國市場的The RealReal已成功售出250萬件物件。香奈兒、愛馬仕、普拉達、勞力士以及路易威登是最受歡迎的品牌。零售價的60-70%歸委托人所有。

“Second-hand used to have a stigma.Today it has none: worldwide last year $200bn dollars of personal luxury products went into the market,” says Wainwright.“There are multiple reasons — one is a generational shift, one is a green thing — when you buy something previously owned, you're recycling, it's a circular economy — the other is the internet and access to information.”

“買二手時裝在過去是件丟臉的事，如今則大不一樣了：去年全球個人奢侈品的銷售額高達2000億美元?！睖刭囂卣f，“買賣二手貨原因多種多樣——其中之一是出于更新?lián)Q代，第二個原因是為了環(huán)保：購買二手貨屬于回收利用，是循環(huán)經(jīng)濟；另一大原因是因特網(wǎng)的廣泛應用以及獲取信息的渠道異常便捷?！?/p>

美國市場由The RealReal主宰，而歐洲市場的主導者是法國電商Vestiaire Collective。據(jù)該電商的創(chuàng)始人之一范妮·莫藏（Fanny Moizant）透露：網(wǎng)店創(chuàng)建于2009年，起初只有朋友與其它網(wǎng)站提供的3000件二手奢侈品。如今，網(wǎng)站銷售的二手奢侈品超過了40萬件，2015年的利潤高達7800萬歐元。莫藏認為2008年金融危機是二手奢侈品網(wǎng)店井噴式發(fā)展的“催化劑”：

“I saw the marketing phenomenon that was the fashion bloggers.In France they were called the Recessionistas, because they appeared at the height of the crisis and were finding a smart way of reselling their own pieces on blogs and making money, even though there was no real system.”

“我當初看到各大時尚博主這類營銷現(xiàn)象。在法國，這些人被稱為‘不景氣時尚達人'，因為他們出現(xiàn)在金融危機最嚴重的時候，找到了一種在博客兜售自己用過的奢侈品并且賺錢的妙招，盡管當時并沒有實際銷售平臺。”

這些網(wǎng)店成功的秘訣緣于完全模仿奢侈品購買體驗。

“We have a deep appreciation of the brands, the products, the quality and the craftsmanship,” says Wainwright.“Ebay was sad.The romance was broken.It lacked integrity.So our goal was to maintain the brands' integrity.”

“我們對各大品牌的內涵、旗下產(chǎn)品、質量以及做工了如指掌?！睖刭囂卣f，“Ebay是個傷心地，破壞了消費者購置奢侈品的浪漫心情。Ebay沒有誠信。所以我們當初設立的目標就是維系各大時尚品牌的誠信。”

莫藏對此也深有同感：

“Before us, there was a second-hand market but it lacked this — we brought in two big pillars.The first was trust.The second was curation — the internet is so vast, so we do the job of selecting the best pieces.We have a team of stylists, who each day go through about 4,000 pieces and vet them digitally and pick the best.We also authenticate with a whole other team of experts.”

“在我們網(wǎng)店成立之前，曾有個二手奢侈品交易市場，但它缺少兩樣東西，而這兩樣東西后來成為我們的立身之本，其一是誠信，第二是產(chǎn)品管理——因特網(wǎng)功能強大，所以我們挑選最好的產(chǎn)品。我們有專門的設計師團隊，他們每天在網(wǎng)上瀏覽4000件時裝，并做出甄別，擇優(yōu)選擇。我們還聘請另一專家團隊對其進行鑒定?！?/p>

無論是The RealReal還是Vestiaire Collective，都沒把自己視作舊貨交易場所。

“We want people to feel like the pieces are in stores now — that it's modern,” says Wainwright, “We go beyond e-commerce into being a social network for fashion.It's so rare to find that in a second-hand website — and that's what women and girls love; sharing their love of fashion with other fashionistas.”

“我們希望消費者感覺它們就是門店銷售的產(chǎn)品，讓消費者感受到那種時尚快感?！睖刭囂卣f，“我們突破了純電商領域，變成了時尚社交網(wǎng)站。這在二手奢侈品網(wǎng)店顯得鳳毛麟角——這正是女性朋友喜歡我們網(wǎng)店的原因所在：與其他時尚達人分享時尚的愛好?！?/p>

而消費者的購物習慣將越來越取決于二手時裝市場。溫賴特最引以為豪的是，自己正逐漸影響奢侈品市場以及正改變消費者的購物模式——尤其是讓消費者對特定款式與流行品牌的真實價值一清二楚。有些大品牌的吸引力難以為繼，在網(wǎng)店的定價與銷售額量就已一目了然，這可能會出乎業(yè)界意料。然而品牌內部的人事變動對于自身二手品的熱銷與否也會有巨大作用。

“Two-and-a-half years ago, Gucci had really bad resale value,” offers Wainwright, citing the recent appointment of Alessandro Michele as a turning point.“Now it's right up there — it's big.They reinvigorated the brand and people got excited, so now we can even sell old Gucci, from pre-Michele, particularly the logo stuff — it has value again.”

“兩年半以前，古馳的二手貨售價不盡人意。”溫賴特主動說道，并說古馳最近聘請亞歷山德羅·米歇爾出任創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)成為其轉折點?！叭缃窆篷Y又成了高大上的搶手品牌，它又煥發(fā)出勃勃生機，消費者對其趨之若鶩，因此現(xiàn)在甚至米歇爾之前幾位創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)設計的古馳，尤其是帶標識的那些，都容易出手——它又變得價值不菲了?！?/p>

她認為二手奢侈品的買賣很好地教育了消費者，讓其增強了信心、增長了見識：

“Our shoppers look to check the resale value of things.They do notice if a brand has no resale value and move away from it.When I meet consignors they always say ‘You've changed the way I shop.'”

“我們的消費者期望檢驗二手奢侈品的價格。他們真的注意到：如果該品牌沒有二次銷售價值，他們就會移情其它品牌。我與委托人見面時，他們總是這樣說：‘你改變了我的購物模式。'”

詞匯總結

stigma ['st?gm?]

n.[植]柱頭；恥辱；污名；烙印；特征

Second-hand used to have a stigma.

買二手時裝在過去是件丟臉的事。

curation [kju?re???n]

指在中國文化創(chuàng)意、藝術文化領域，通過創(chuàng)意構思、資源整合（人脈、文化藝術、渠道、媒體）等智慧勞動，鏈接中高端品牌、文化、藝術項目與社會大眾的關聯(lián)，使活動、展覽、演出發(fā)揮高效系統(tǒng)專業(yè)的經(jīng)濟、社會、文化效應。

The second was curation — the internet is so vast, so we do the job of selecting the best pieces.

第二是產(chǎn)品管理——因特網(wǎng)功能強大，所以我們挑選最好的產(chǎn)品。

authenticate [??'θent?ke?t]

vt.鑒定；證明…是真實的

We also authenticate with a whole other team of experts.

我們還聘請另一專家團隊對其進行鑒定。

fashionista [,f??n'ist?]

n.瘋狂追求時髦與流行的人

That's what women and girls love; sharing their love of fashion with other fashionistas.

reinvigorate [ri??n'v?g?re?t]

vt.使再振作；使復興

They reinvigorated the brand and people got excited, so now we can even sell old Gucci, from pre-Michele, particularly the logo stuff — it has value again.

如今古馳又成了高大上的搶手品牌，它又煥發(fā)出勃勃生機，消費者對其趨之若鶩，因此現(xiàn)在甚至米歇爾之前幾位創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)設計的古馳，尤其是帶標識的那些，都容易出手——它又變得價值不菲了。